ForestApps Blog...

Back to Basic's

2012-01-21T12:21:00.002-05:00

Back to Basic's

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Have you ever had an experience that after it you said, “Duh, how dumb”, to yourself?

I have always been one to instruct others about the importance of the basics. Planning and execution of the basics usually achieves better results, safely and more productively. As an educator in the field of chainsaw applications and safety I feel more and more everyday that this is most important.

Well, as usual when I get busy doing something I have done over and over or have successfully accomplished in the past, I tend to get a little complacent and skip the basics process. Have you ever done this? When I forget the plan, trying to rush the task, I find my results are usually not what I want them to be.

The past few weeks I have began a new education, something I have always wanted to do. I have thousands of miles and hours riding in commercial aircraft but I have never been in the pilots seat during flight. So, one of my life list items is to accomplish the task. I want to get a pilot’s license. I looked on the internet and found a flight school located just a mile from our new property in Rome, GA and contacted the company. The owner and head instructor, Earl Tillman, called me and invited me over for a test flight. After an hour with him, as I thought I would be, I am hooked.

During the first flight Capt. Tillman asked me what I do for a living and I explained. He started telling me about a project he had going on at his home. He was working a project to open the view from his recently constructed new deck. About an acre of Mimosa trees of 2” to 8” had grown in to block the view. They needed to come out… I agreed to help (to trade out some instruction time). I am glad I did as he has over 6000 hours in small airplane piloting and instruction but he was going to hurt himself with all the intertwined tops of these trees and vine cover. He is amazingly very good with a chainsaw bucking and limbing though! His South GA upbringing (raising) gave him a few hours good training.

During breaks, in what turned out to be a part time three day project, I gave him some instruction in felling. How to notch and back cut after taking information. Putting these weed trees right where you want them to finish the bucking and limbing. He caught on very quickly.

I have learned so very much from this pilot/flight instructor that began his piloting career in about the year I was born. He’s still going strong and again I mention he has taught me so much about flying. Then the other day, taught me something even more important about instructing and achieving anything you set out to do.

I’ve made just over 50 takeoffs and landings since beginning my flight training the week after Christmas 2011. At first I was so nervous, trying to absorb everything and keep it straight, but with a little help from Capt. Tillman, talking me through, the landings were getting better. Then windy days seemed to make it a little more challenging, but I was still able to get the little Cessna 150 to the hanger without any damage.

Around about 40 landings though, I found myself trying to drive the plane through the winds and get it to the runway. Wow, it turned out to be scary. The harder I tried, the worse I seem to get. I couldn't believe I was getting worse at landing that little plane rather than better. Capt. Tillman was there, ready to bail me out of trouble, staying calm and seemed unconcerned with my downward spiraling landing progress.

Then on about one of the rougher landings Capt. Tillman made a statement, as I was taxiing back to the hanger. He said, “You know, they always say that the trick to a good landing is a proper approach.” “Set up your speed and elevation, then line up, look down the nose at the runway and let the plane land.” Now he made the statement that made me understand how great an instructor he is. He said, “Not having it set up right is like trying to cut a tree without a face notch, just with a back cut, trying to get it to do what you want it to do.”

Now folk’s, that 55 years or so of flying just made him an awesome chainsaw instructor too. He just took me back to the basics of technique and instruction in just those couple easy, but profound, sentences.

No matter what you are trying to achieve you can’t overlook the basics of executing the complete plan! Now back to the training!

Good Sawing and Flying!

For chainsaw basics - visit our website at www.ForestApps.com or eMail info@FoprestApps.com for information on our training programs.

All About The Notch

2011-12-21T07:53:00.001-05:00

All About The Notch
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Not really, it's really all about the hinge but without the notch the hinge won't work. Does this sound complicated? It is complicated, but not really. Here's some Notch Knowledge...

-In falling, limbing and bucking techniques where movement with control is required, a notch is as important as the hinge. A notch establishes direction, movement of the stem or limb in the direction desired and allows the hinge to break from its back to front evenly and controlled.

-The back of the notch is the fulcrum point and balance point of the trunk and or limb's movement. It's relationship to the crown weight establishes forward and back lean.

-The notch placement, at a distance from the trunks back side, establishes the size of a lifting segment. Segments can assist in calculating wedge lift and pivot requirements.

-The notch establishes level in the cutting process. Your back cut or severing cuts should line up to the notch position.

-The depth of the notch into the tree face or limb diameter establishes control side to side. The depth of the notch gives the hinge its side lean support strength related to its length.

-The middle of the notch should be the middle of the trees diameter.

-The opening of the notch allows the smooth movement of the tree or limb to the target. Take for instance if the notch closes, before the hinge releases, the fiber must snap or pull. The stem or limb will shake and possibly break, shatter or Barber's Chair. This can be especially dangerous with fire damaged or dead tree tops during a fall.

-Make certain there is not a mis-match (Dutchman) in the corner of the notch. This will render the notch semi-inoperative. The by-pass will close with very little movement of the stem or limb.

-A notch of less than 70 degrees is lacking in operations. The opening should allow movement until the stem or limb reaches is desired placement.

Remember, anytime you start a chainsaw, first put on your personal protective equipment (PPE). Many injuries can be prevented or at least lessened by safety glasses, face shields, hard hats, ear protection (plugs or muffs), gloves, chainsaw chaps and heavy duty boots (chainsaw protective). http://www.Elvex.com .

The author is president and instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. a nationally recognized training company for chainsaw safety and productivity. Logging, Tree Care, State and Municipal Employees, Disaster Relief and home firewood and cleanup projects. For more information and any questions visit http://www.ForestApps.com .

(c) Copyright 2011 Forest Applications Training, Inc.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Fuel Solutions

2011-11-29T16:38:00.002-05:00

Fuel Solution

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

I was told many years ago that an equipment operator is only as good as the equipment he or she runs. This is true, not only in design, but also in their ability to deal with outside the design circumstance.

Fuels today offer a wide variety of instabilities for two stroke engines. They are formulated, by demand, to cater to the automotive side of engines. Small engines, like your chainsaw, blower and trimmer, are forced to try to burn it and survive.

We recently visited the plant and facilities of B3C Fuel Solutions in Conway, SC. The company has been developing and producing fuel additives for over two years now. They are growing rapidly as their products are impressing and filling distribution channels nationwide. They have the capacity to produce over 40,000 bottles a day of some very amazing fuel additives. I’ve been using, testing and becoming ever more convinced that their products are viable solutions to some present two-stroke fuel problems.

The additives are based on a formulation that is effective in both four cycle and two cycle engines and for both gasoline and diesel combustion. They add special formulations to focus the products to specific needs. Their Fuel Solution products are not a flammable but a combustable additive.

Mechanic in a Bottle for gas and diesel and their flagship Ethanol Shield are their top sellers. More info at www.b3cfuelsolutions.com

Explaining a few things I learned in the visit:

Storage and Fuel

All fuel types begin to degrade, attract moisture and oil mix separates over time. Most manufacturers of two stoke equipment recommend to store fuel in a properly labeled and sealed fuel can or supply tank. Only store for a max of 30 days unless stabilized and always buy 89 or higher octane gas.

Stabilization

Fuels today create or are oxygenated to maintain the light ends, or vapor, that improve its volatility. Ethanol does a good job of meeting this need but in this process however the more vaporizing ability of the fuel the more quickly a given volume can become unstable. Stabilizers are formulated to maintain the mix of petroleum gasoline, the ethanol and the oil additive to the blend.

The oil added for your two cycle will adhere to the petroleum gas but not as well to the ethanol added without some assistance. Some synthetic mix oils do blend better to the ethanol, but additives like B3C’s Ethanol Shield can be a big plus to this process. When the ethanol and gas go through a phase separation (which can happen from just temperature changes), it can leave a portion of your fuel going into your engine without lubrication.

Water and the burn

I heard years ago that all gasoline has some content of water that is contained in its volume. One aspect of water and fuel I didn't understand until recently is what happens when fuel burns in the engines combustion area that has a content of water. Mini explosions take place when the water meets the flame. It spreads the flame like fireworks, sparks and fire going in different directions.

I observed several additives that say they remove water. They did seem to accumulate it in the tests but when burned they popped, sparked, sputtered and almost seemed to explode the water uncontrollably. The B3C products made the water invisible and the mixture burned smoothly with none of the fireworks.

Detergent

Additives in fuel designed to clean internal parts can have great results in some engines. If they are not compatible with the oil in two cycle fuel however, the situation can be detrimental. Some detergents cause the oil to suspend or not attach itself to the fuel molecule. This attachment is important to your two cycle engine lubrication. Ethanol added to gasoline is a strong detergent. Additives are necessary and important to allow the ethanol to mix and stay blended.

Fuel Volatility

As fuel ages its effective and controlled burn decreases. As the vaporizing ability and octane deteriorates the fuel becomes unstable and is erratic in the engine’s combustion. Fresh volatile fuel offers a controlled, even burn, under the engines compression and fire sequence. As volatility declines the combustion is like mini explosions and causes a hammering on pistons, bearings and other internal parts. This effect is called detonation.

Burn clean, reducing smoke output

In an ideal condition your engine should burn all the combusted fuel and air. Complete combustion properly reduces emissions that you breath and ejected into the atmosphere. Clean combustion also means the interior of your engine is not coated and covered with shellac and or carbon.

I watched several burn illustrations of an assortment of fuels and additives on the market. Most all of them had soot and carbon streaming into the air when the solution was burned. This illustrates what is happening inside the combustion and the exhaust process of your engine. When the B3C products were burned the flame was consistent and long burning with no recognizable smoking.

All in all, I am convince there are products that can help us though the ethanol issues at www.b3cfuelsolutions.com

For more information contact info@forestapps.com or visit our website www.ForestApps.com

Professional Call

2011-11-11T08:37:00.001-05:00

Professional Call
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

The past week I have spent some time looking over comments and video following the recent snow storms on social media sites. You can learn a lot within today's electronic information. Because of the early snow, while leaves were still in place, they caused extensive tree damage across the country from Colorado to Maine. Crews from all over the area have logged many hours and miles traveling to assist with the reconstruction and clean up process.

Many of the comments reminded homeowners of the dangers of storm tree cleanup. To leave most of the tasks to a trained professional. I agree that a call to a professional is a wise choice in these storm situations. Homeowners and do it yourself fans need to be saw savvy enough to know when to put down the saw and pick up the phone.

I am a little disturbed however at what seemed to be "way too often" seen scenarios on the news and in photos. Professionals with a poor Professional Call for themselves. Now, don't get me wrong, the majority of the scenes having municipal workers and other professional's yielding chainsaws were properly equipped with PPE but it seemed to average only about half of the coverage. That means there are many,many professionals and even more homeowners who are unaware of the dangers, regulations, and even less the awareness and need for PPE.

It's a Professional's Call to protect themselves from some of the risks when operating a chainsaw. PPE is not going to keep an accident from taking place but it sure can help to reduce some of the injuries. It doesn't, just because you are paid, make you impervious to injury from tree and chainsaw incidents. Experience doesn't negate the pain. A professional should plan for, buy, and use every advantage they can to reduce those unplanned accident events. Professionals and occasional users alike all draw from the same pool of revenues, insurance and workers comp, to repair such incidents.

Whether a novice or professional the awareness of the operation dangers need to be sought out through written materials such as your operators manual, reputable video, or advanced training to handle the tasks. If one doesn't have properly maintained tools and Personal Protective Equipment they are not prepared for a storm cleanup operation. PPE includes a hardhat, face, eye and ear protectors, gloves, saw chaps and heavy boots. Make sure of these things before beginning work.

In Closing

If you are a homeowner with do it yourself ability, make sure you have invested in your safety planning, knowledge, sufficient training for skills and PPE. If you haven't done this for yourself- Make the Professional Call!

If you are a homeowner, contracting the services of a tree care or landscape crew, insist the crew is equipped with PPE and safely plans the project before you allow them to begin your work. If they are trained and experienced they will be properly equipped.

Make sure their Calling is as a Professional. It's a Professional Call!

The author is president and lead instructor for Forest Applications Training, Inc., PO Box 1048, Hiram, GA 30141. For more information on Chainsaw Safety and Applications Training send your questions and or comments to info@forestapps.com Visit our website at www.forestapps.com

(c) Copyright 2011 Forest Applications Training, Inc.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Power of a Storm

2011-10-30T10:35:00.001-04:00

Power of a Storm
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

We just made it to our next training location on the Cape of Massachusetts. Once again our travel to New England was on the heels of a record storm. First, hurricane Irene and this time one of the earliest record snow and wind storms on record, it's the end of October, not January.

Inches of rain, followed by ice, snow and high winds are damaging trees, taking out power lines. Inevitably the clean up process will be accompanied by reports of injury and death.

Every day it seems, somewhere in the nation, a storm, flood, ice, tornado, hurricane or wind has created situations that chainsaws are brought out of storage to handle. In today's neighborhoods though, another power source is often brought into play - generators.

In recent years generators have become more economical and many people are adding them to their homes for back up energy should the grid go down. For clean up operations however, it causes another safety incident area to be added to your planning process. Many generator owners do not properly install switch systems and sometimes even ventilation systems to safely use their generator for back up power.

A generator should not be ran inside a garage, room or basement where exhaust gases are not properly vented to outside air. Gas and diesel engines produce Carbon Monoxide that will kill you. Place generators outside! Allowing exhaust gases to float around inside your home or building will cause serious illness or death.

A generator used to power circuits in your home must be properly wired. A switch disconnect box must be installed to take your home off the public power grid or your generator will be flowing out and into the grid. You can't just simply plug a cord into you wall socket to run your refrigerator or lights.

A safety issue for cleanup operations

If you are not using a switch disconnect the power goes out into the grid's power lines and pole transformers that can take your little generator's voltage and amps and multiply it to killing power. You see, the power company has alerted workers and area volunteers that the power is off but, your generator isn't. It is energizing lines that someone may be working close to and unknowingly, not expecting, your power to attack them. So, properly wire your home connection or make sure to plug your power needs direct to the sockets on the generator. Save lives!

A Powerful Investment - V Watch
While at the ICUEE in Louisville, KY for www.Elvex.com I came across a tool that many chainsaw operators and teams need. It's called V-Watch by HD Electric Supply. This device is a small voltage detector that can be worn around your neck or attached to a pocket. When you come close to an energized power line it alerts you to the possible danger. This can be an important tool for today's disaster relief teams or for any city or town employees that are first response to storm damage.

Please remember, if you pick up a chainsaw - Put on your Personal Protective Equipment.

A great resource for chainsaw operators- First, your saw's operator's manual. Second, the Forest Applications eBook available from our links on www.ForestApps.com and Barnes and Noble Booksellers.

For more information on chainsaw safety and storm applications training contact us at Forest Applications Training, Inc. info@ForestApps.com www.ForestApps.com

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Dennis, MA

APWA Congress

2011-09-17T13:29:00.001-04:00

We flew out to Colorado on the 11th to conduct chainsaw workshops for Colorado LTAP in some of the most beautiful areas of the Rocky Mountains. The first near Telluride, CO. at about 10k feet. Colorado Springs was next, then the last workshop was in Longmont, CO. We had a blast with all the attendees... It is a breathtaking place to work in more than one way - beautiful scenery and thin air.

Sunday - Tuesday we are assisting Elvex Safety with a booth and presentation at the National American Public Works Association Congress here in downtown Denver, CO. APWA is expecting a good turnout for this year's congress and we hope to be able to meet many new contacts to carry on future training programs. Its always a pleasure working with the Elvex staff and talking to folks about their great PPE products.

I've been using and promoting Elvex PPE for right at two years now and I can still tell you I am very happy and the training customers who have converted to them are extremely pleased. The Tectra hardhats and attached hearing and face protection are awesome and the Prolar fabric in the leg protection and upper body garments are superior!

During the National Guard training, which was an instructor program, I assigned topics for the participants to instruct during class exercises. One group decided they would like to see how the chaps work and cut them with a saw. I had a pair of Elvex Arbor chaps with the Prolar padding that was donated to the educational cause. The soldier was determined to put them to the test and expected success in cutting through them. It was one of the most eye opening experiences of the training workshop. The Elvex chap stopped the saw effort in two layers of the pad. They were amazed and talked about the importance of getting other soldiers to make sure and wear their chaps when they pick up a saw... Have you committed to wearing them? www.Elvex.com

Fiber… Hold On

2011-08-10T10:09:00.002-04:00

Fiber… Hold On

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

My Dad use to remind me of an old saying when it comes to finances, “It’s not how much you make, It’s how much you keep that makes one wealthy.” That analogy is fresh in my mind as the stock market continues to plummet today. Fiber and or money must have a good solid base to be strong, versatile and reach your goal.

Hinge wood is very similar to finances - It is important to plan a hinge of fiber that stays through the fall of the tree or limb, remains attached until the target goal is reached.

The hinge wood or holding wood, as it is sometimes referred to, is a strip of fiber which attaches the stump to the stem, limb or trunk as it’s falling in a removal process. It works very similar to a metal hinge placed on a door to keep it swinging perfectly to the latch. Strong, mechanical, yet flexible to accomplish the important task.

How do I know if the hinge fiber is good?

In short look! Examine the fiber as you begin your cut. Good fiber has some moisture content and is flexible to bend and consistently break from its back to its front.

In anticipation of inferior fiber you can perform several examinations.

Look at the outer surface of the tree for imperfections, loose bark, conks or other signs of decay.
Sound the tree for a solid or hollow sound when struck with your Shalaylee (correct spelling Shillelagh).
Inspect the area at the base of the tree for signs of insect dust or sap.
Observe any fire damage that may have effected fiber strength.
Check, after making your notch, for soft or rotted fiber behind the notch.
Cracks or rot in the hinge area.
Check the roots for signs of instability that may not support the hinge area.
Bore the area to examine fiber consistency.

Was it because of a certain tree?

People often ask if one tree’s fiber holds better than another. The answer is yes! However, its not as much dependent on the tree species as it is the specific tree in any given area. I find every tree is different, even if the same species. They can react differently because of the site, the weather, bugs, fire and environmental effects. So the hinge is directly effected by the material (tree) you are working with.

The back too…

Take time to observe potential fiber deficiencies over all the tree. If wedging, pushing or pulling is required, damaged or rotted fiber may not offer the support needed to safely complete the task. It may compress or even act as a pivot as you begin a cut. This could critically effect your success, so take the time, evaluate the possibilities before you begin a cut. Soft fiber, cracks or splits may not cooperate without a detailed plan for the situation.

What’s the results if I don’t?

If you make a plan, without taking good information, it’s not a plan. If you’re not focused on the material content of the hinge, it’s highly probable that it won’t be of consistency, strength and reliability to succeed. Looking for hazards and obstacles in initiating your plan is most important. However, following closely are the understanding of tree lean and proper hinge installation. If you don’t pay homage to these things you are working the wild side and destined to failure sometime soon. As they say, “ Make a plan and work the plan.” It’s the best way to keep what you make!

Know the hinge is your friend and rely on good fiber holding on to insure positive results.

This article is one of many being compiled to educate chainsaw users of the necessity of planning before attempting cleanup work following storms. Tim Ard is president of Forest Applications Training Inc., a national training company specializing in educating the chainsaw operator. For more information visit www.ForestApps.com or message info@ForestApps.com .

Above the Notch

2011-08-02T07:23:00.001-04:00

Above the Notch

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

A storm has damaged a tree leaving a broken limb or top dangling. You can work with the situation and have a good escape plan - If nothing shakes the tree.

A tree should have been removed a season or two ago. The top has died and is beginning to drop limbs and bark. It’s leaning in an open direction and should fall without any issues - If nothing shakes too much, especially the top.

A tree has been badly burned during a hot fire. The top is brittle and doesn't look stabile but you have a good escape route. All should go well - If the top doesn't shake and break out during the fall.

The three scenarios above are very common but few recognize how a misunderstanding of simple notching mechanics could cause disaster.

Know the Boss

The hinge is your friend. It offers support and control of the tree, trunk or limb in your planned removal process, but the notch gives the hinge the opportunity to work. It’s the boss!

Picture the three cutting scenario’s above. Consider what could happen should the notch opening close. Whether cutting from the back or bore cutting the stem or tree, when it moves into a position where the notch opening closes, the hinge has to break or snap. Now, let’s say you have a 30 degree opening in the notch, the stem moves 30 degrees before the notch closes. If the notch opening is 30, 45, 90, 120 degrees, however wide the notch opening, it allows the hinge to work. When it closes, the hinge is broken. What happens to the end of the limb or the top of the tree when this closing and snapping are going on? It sends a whipping action and excessive shake up the stem or out the limb. If the top or end is unstable, as in the three discussed scenarios, the chance of them falling or breaking out is highly probable. Who is in control of the notch and its effects on the fall? You are, if you’re the sawyer and understand it....

It is so very important to consider the notch opening as you plan the tree’s movement. Make sure the notch opening will allow the hinge to stay attached until the limb or tree reaches the ground or is at least parallel. A straight tree with a 45 degree notch only moves half way to the ground before the hinge control is lost. An Open-Face Notch of 70 to 90 degrees allows the hinge to work all the way to the ground. It reduces chances of butt rebound, splitting, barber’s chair, pulled fiber and reduces the possibility of whipping and breaking the top back toward your planned escape route. Remember too, a Dutchman (or by-pass) at the notch corner reduces the opening to almost nothing. So make sure the notch cuts meet exact.

A sufficient and correct notch maintains minimum top shaking and movement... Above the Notch!

Tim Ard is president and lead instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc., A training company specializing in safety and applications of the chainsaw operator.

Your Chainsaw and Old Fuel

2011-07-26T10:19:00.002-04:00

Your Chainsaw and Old Fuel

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

I recently was contacted by a friend who has taken on distribution of some new fuel additives that are designed for today’s fuels and their effects on small engines. We met and he went over some of the formulas that B3C Fuel Solutions has to offer. They focus on the moisture attracting properties of Diesel Fuel and Ethanol Enhanced Gasoline on the market today. How ethanol enhanced effects fuel and oil mixtures. They are concentrating now on the small engine, especially the chainsaw. This is where I come in.

I am cornered consistently by training attendees with these questions and others regarding proper fuel -

How long does gasoline today stay fresh in my saw or fuel can?

Today’s fuels are produced to burn cleaner and to reduce emissions. They have ethanol, detergents and other additives to accomplish this. Fuels today are not only more environmentally friendly but also better clean your internal engine parts for longer engine life. The addition of higher concentrations of ethanol to gasoline makes it a positive for volatility, cleaning and performance. However, with storage, drops stability and offers too many scrubbing bubbles, so to speak, for good chainsaw powerhead health. This evaporation of the positive’s limit the shelf life of your fuel in your saw or fuel can.

Small engine manufacturers are recommending to not store fuel without stabilizers for more than 30 days.

What does ethanol do to my chainsaw?

Ethanol will run great in a chainsaw if the carburetor metering and fuel supply parts are designed to regulate and contain it. It causes very little problems if you don’t allow it to sit or start to breakdown in your system.

Ethanol can be corrosive to aluminum, magnesium and because of the water collection properties, even some steel and other metals. It’s an excellent solvent, that because of its characteristics and water absorption, separates or even will inhibit the gasoline from mixing with the 2-cycle engine oil you are trying to blend with it. Ethanol can soften some fuel lines, dry out rubber parts and carburetor diaphragms and when it evaporates, leaves a slimy sludge and varnish that can stop up the best-designed fuel and valve trains.

So - without fresh gasoline mixed, without stabilizers, without water management, without proper carburetion and or adjustments- you most likely will have trouble.

Will my chainsaw run on E85 gasoline?

Your chainsaw, in its current state, will not run E85. It will not successfully adjust and live long with ethanol blends higher than E10 without parts upgrades.

I’ve never had any problems before. Why do I need to be concerned now?

The problem with ethanol-enhanced fuels is not so much the current blends but those coming to a pump near you soon. It’s going to be a battle between your auto fuel and your small engine fuel supplies and storage. All this is going to happen quickly as the push to E15, E20, E30 and E85 blended fuels are brought to market. Yes, the ethanol effects of engine corrosion, adjustment problems, water, etc. exist with E10 but it will all be magnified and multiplied with future blends.

Now there may be hope! (Back to my first paragraph…)

B3C Fuel Solutions has two products that can assist with today’s ethanol woes and they are working diligently to hold future fuel issues at bay.

Mechanic in a Bottle and Ethanol Shield from B3C –

· Fix the fuel system & deep clean the carburetor without removal, even on non-running engines
· Revitalize old fuel and delicate fuel system components safely
· Cleanse power robbing carbon deposits from the engines internal components
· Stabilize the fuel to ensure quick starting

Ethanol Shield from B3C –

· Remove water to prevent Phase Separation
· Protect the rubber & plastic components from ethanol
· Stabilize the gasoline to ensure quick starting and prevent stale fuel

Fuel Test Kit from B3C –

· A simple swab test that will tell you what condition your fuel is in.

My Test

I had an old saw that my father had for years. He passed away five years ago. I know he didn’t use the saw for at least a year before he passed. I had it stuck back on a shelf in the shop. Long to short, the fuel in the saw’s tank was over 6 years old. You can see in the photos what it looked like when I poured it into a glass for my test of Mechanic in a Bottle.

The fuel was almost black in color, stunk to high heaven, and I was amazed to see that it had no signs of water in the tank. Most likely no ethanol was in the fuel tank. Well, since there was no visible water, I added three tablespoons to it. You can see the water in the bottom of the glass.

I first added one ounce of MIAB to the fuel and stirred it up. It seemed to absorb a little of the water quickly and the fuel color lightened slightly. I decided to add the whole four ounces of MIAB to the glass since the instructions said I couldn’t overdose the fuel. I also figured it would have to have a pretty good initial dose of MIAB to absorb all the water I added.

I covered the glass and let it sit for almost 48 hours. When I returned, I stirred the solution, which had really lightened a lot in color, and it only seemed to have just a little amount of the water left in the bottom of the glass. When I stirred it up, it appeared the water disappeared and when allowing it to just sit about ten minutes only a small spot of water seemed to reappear. I was amazed!

Then the supreme challenge – will the fuel run in a chainsaw? I took my saw, started to make sure it ran ok. Cleaned the fuel out of the tank, then poured in the old gas solution. I did try to not pour any of the water residues into the tank. There wasn’t much left in the bottom of the glass.

I pulled, it started, and I ran it for a couple minutes or so to make sure it had pulled the old fuel from the tank. The adjustments seemed to change slightly but the saw ran just fine.

Pictures and video are downloadable at https://public.me.com/timard/OldFuel

Now that’s some extreme old fuel and I wouldn’t recommend trying to revitalize gas mix that’s that old. But I was amazed that the old gas with the MIAB would run. I’ve experienced fuel, not nearly that old, to be dead as a doornail.

I’m working on a test with carburetor adjustments and the Ethanol Shield to see how it works. They may have the solution…

Tim Ard is president and lead instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. a national chainsaw safety and productivity training company. For more information contact us info@forestapps.com

Cracks and Splits

2011-07-19T19:16:00.001-04:00

Cracks and Splits

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

One of the most unpredictable and dangerous situations confronting us in storm damage and sometimes rotted trees, is the too often presence of cracks, shatters and splits in the tree trunks, logs and limbs. There are somewhat natural windshakes, or cracks, in most standing trees but when wind, tornados, hurricane, fire or bugs start working on a tree - multiple cracks, splits or crevices tend to make planning and control an even greater concern.

Cracked, split and twisted fiber in storm broken limbs and downed trunks can be shattered and twisted into many strands. Just cutting through the log when in this condition can be challenging. Every cut releases a fiber strand that attempts to grab your saw chain and with moving weight loads tries to pinch your saw chain and guide bar.

A standing tree, that’s been fire damaged or has started the drying process at near deadwood state, sometimes creates vertical splits. Some I have seen are impossible to plan around and in these cases you are even taking a chance to make a cut unto them. The tree may collapse vertically, or twist and shatter heading in an unpredictable direction. Often times, if the tree is vertically straight, even equipment pushing or pulling is too risky. Maybe this is a good application for dynamite or a planned knock down by another tree. These killers are found often in the Western USA but you can find plenty of them in the all the states.

Winston Rall, USFS, sent me this photo of a shell of a tree from out in his part of the country. That’s a hardhat stuck in a crack in the trunk…. As I said, some trees may need dynamite.

One technique option for more simple cracks or shatters may be a bore or plunge cut. They can be used to remove tension or shorten fiber length to make it possible to cut some split fiber situation. Using a bore cut slightly before or after twisted fiber may allow you to take tension out of the log or limb.

I received the following message from a Massachusetts contact:

Tim, I was in the May class in Southbridge that you taught for basic skills and storm cleanup. On June 2nd, we had an F3 touch down in Massachusetts. The skills you taught us were extremely useful in the cleanup following the storm. The hinge is truly my friend! Yesterday, I took down a 20 ft. remnant of a red oak that had been stripped of its bark. The top had been smashed off also, leaving the remainder of the trunk splintered in many pieces but still vertical. To take it down, I notched each separate splinter as if it were a separate tree, making a plunge cut for my back cut. From this plunge cut I would make my back cut for the next piece. This allowed me to fell each piece in a controlled manner exactly where I wanted it to go. Thank you for the training. I have been telling anyone that will listen what a great training program you have. Thanks again, Butch Meyer

Offset cuts can be used to remove shattered fiber. Cut the compression side first and then offset the cut on the tension side. Cut a distance just far enough to intersect the fiber you cut from the compression side, but do it a distance left or right of the compression cut to stay to the edge of shattered/split area.

Be very careful that the split, crack or shatter is not under bowed tension. They can mimic a spring pole in this scenario. When you cut, the fiber may attempt to straighten and move rapidly. Watch your position and the cutting location. Try to cut in the middle of any formed arcs.

I plan to put some of this into video form this fall along with several other techniques for applications in storm debris clean up. Until then, a great way to visualize a lot of these techniques in action is to attend one of our three-day storm debris and falling workshops. More information at www.forestapps.com

Good Sawing!

Tim Ard is president and lead instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. a nationwide training firm for operators in all chainsaw applications.

Stuck in the Storm

2011-07-05T10:44:00.001-04:00

Stuck in the Storm

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

We have all been there...take down a tree or we’re removing a tree already down from a storm and begin to make a cut on the trunk or limb. The wood grabs our saw with a vengeance before we can complete the cut. Yes, it’s happened to me one time a long, long time ago (Right, it’s a lie. Maybe twice...). If you cut trees it’s a fact, you will occasionally get stuck. The challenge is to limit the occurrence's and you can if you understand why and plan well.

When you make cuts with a chainsaw you have to constantly take information on compression and tension. Compression is the side of the pressure or bind in the log or limb that will close the kerf cut, pinching your saw bar. Tension is the opposite side, the side that will open away from your bar during the cut or movement of the limb or log. These reactions, I will call them, can take place from side to side, up and down or even at some unexpected angles, as the weight and pressures in the wood are released. There are a few common scenarios to plan around.

Open Air

In this case the smaller log or limb is supported by air or it is simply a limb that is coming from the trunk and is not touching anything at the end. Its not supported in other words. The compression side is on the bottom of the limb. The Tension is on top. You can simply make a severing cut from the top and the limb falls.

Weighted

What if it’s a heavy limb? What if the limb has weighted branches to one side? In this case the limb may split or begin to twist as you cut and it still pinches your chain and or saw bar. You have to anticipate the movement and out-cut the separating wood fiber. A notch or deeper compression side kerf cut is important here.

End Support

The log or limb is touching or supported on two ends or two pivots. It has a downward movement potential between the two points of support. The wood wants to drop in the middle. Top compression is found in this scenario.

Side Object

If a limb or trunk is against a side object, like a tree or anything that is applying pressure on the piece sideways. This may also be determined to be a horizontal spring pole. The compression is going to be usually on the away from object side or the inner arc side.

Other Considerations

Pivots may be formed by objects or limbs supporting the limb or trunk above ground level. Back pressure can be formed by the limb or log being more vertical or up against something in the end pushing backward. There can also be situations formed by fences, cables, electric lines, etc that require additional caution and specialized training.

In all the scenarios above, and there are many more actual situations that can be met in the field, it is so, so, important to have a good planning process to assess the needs and dangers before making each cut. Hazards, Side Pressures, Up and Down Pressures, Back Pressures and the Individual Cut Technique must be confirmed.

Solution

Next, I’ve planned and decide to make a cut, why do I still get stuck? It could be because trees grow in circles.

Picture the growth rings on a round piece of wood. Every ring (in most climates) represents a year of growth. Each ring is supporting the growth of the tree or limb cylindrically. As you cut through from any side, according to the shape of the cylinder at that given point, you remove support fibers. When the weight or pressure over comes the strength of the growth ring a split or twist usually (will) occurs. This split or twist can also be accompanied by unsightly peels of bark and outer growth layers. Most often this combination causes pinches of the bar and saw chain.

I am convinced the number one thing that causes the stuck is the weight and pressures that move the wood piece during the cut, sometimes very quickly. Because limbs and logs grow in circles it is very hard to determine at what point in the cut the fiber will separate or twist. When this happens, stuck city....

When you make a straight cut into the round wood piece, the externally applied pressures in the growth rings begin to separate. They push outward at the side corners of the cylinder rings and this causes resistance and splitting of the fiber. If again there is weight or pressures, it can cause you to become stuck in these separating fibers.

You must always observe the compression and tensions working. However, a cut or notch on the compression side can reduce the chances of unexpected fiber release and movement. Understand that just a straight cut creates a kerf (slot) but if the piece can only move the width of the kerf, when it closes, other pressures are created at the end of the kerf. A straight cut will often relieve the bind or twist of the cylinder fiber but binds and pulls can still be expected. Also, think about that in the kerf there are end grain fibers that should they bind against your bar or saw chain are like vise jaws. Stuck city...

A very useful technique I have been shown to virtually eliminate the compression side bind is to use a notch, or even simpler the slide notch, on the compression side. A slide notch, just to a depth of as little as a couple growth rings, will relieve the outward pressure at the ring growth and stops the split and or fiber pull. Outcome - Less bar and chain pinches.

Please understand that storm damaged trees and limbs are heavy and often are twisted and loaded with pressures and binds. You need to be familiar with these issues before picking up the chainsaw. Personal injury or property damage does not offset the perceived savings of not calling a professional or seeking special training first.

Should you decide to DIY, please make the investment in Personal Protective Equipment to hopefully lessen an injury should an accident, unplanned event, occur. Visit www.Elvex.com

Good Sawing!

Tim Ard is President of Forest Applications Training, Inc., a training company for chainsaw safety and operations techniques. For more information on training send a question or request to info@ForestApps.com or visit www.ForestApps.com

Going Ballistic!

2011-06-15T07:26:00.001-04:00

Going Ballistic
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

If I understand how something works- I better understand the need for it or maybe how to use it. Chainsaw operators have been going ballistic over leg protection for many years now. I want to share with you a few thoughts.

The term ballistic nylon is used to describe the fibers recommended for leg protective (PPE) garments for the chainsaw. It actually is derived from fibers used in making bullet resistant body armor. One of the first and still used today is Dupont Kevlar, a very strong and durable yellow colored fiber. Fibers of this type were first developed and used in belting for automotive tires and other applications requiring reinforcement with flexibility. This reinforcement fiber was heat resistant as well as strong and soon found it's way into leg protection for logging and the US Forest Service. The USFS requires the fabric to be highly flame resistant because of their use related to forest fires.

Today there are several fiber types used for chainsaw leg protection. Many people still consider the fibers used in all leg protection as "Kevlar", similar to many call soft drinks a "Coke."

Whatever you call chainsaw leg protection fiber, it is the best insurance we can wear against chainsaw injuries to the legs. Let me state something here - No leg protection is to be considered cut proof. It is designed to give you reaction time and hopefully limit, lessen or reduce, the injury should the chainsaw come in contact. Several Manufactures test their pads and garment design to the ASTM standards for the North American Leg Protection Standard. Look at the label on your chaps, or the ones you are considering, you should find a label showing their compliance to this standard. Usually you will find the label of classification to the standard by the Underwriters Laboratory (UL) that performed the test.

Now understanding some of the technical aspects of leg protection let's discuss some typical concerns that may inhibit their use.

During a recent storm clean up following tornados in North Georgia, one of my good friends, Robert Albritton of Tree Works Unlimited observed a chain saw operator without any PPE. Robert, wanting to offer help to those volunteering, asked the young man if he were to get him a pair of chaps from the truck would he wear them? The young man replied, "I wouldn't want to mess up your chaps sir." Robert told him not to worry about that, but still no way he was going to accept Robert's offer. Robert is a professional who recognizes the importance of PPE with his employees and himself. When an unplanned incident (accident) with a chainsaw takes place, two top at risk areas for lacerations are - the legs.

Folks (being a Southerner and caring), you can compare chaps to ballistic body armor here. You can be a soldier or police officer without body armor but if you get hit by a bullet would you want to have it or not? The same is true relating to leg protection while using a chainsaw. Why wouldn't you want to make the investment and take the time to put it on if it could save your life or limb?

The past year I have had the opportunity to learn a great deal about products from Elvex Safety. Their leg protective pads designed with Prolar Fabric is a combination of white fibers layered specifically for chainsaw protection to maximize the chain jamming effect. If or when the chainsaw makes contact, these fibers work hard to maximize reaction time. It's not just the fibers, it's also how the woven pads are arranged and layered. Elvex works well!

Thinking about Going Chainsaw Ballistic? Consider Elvex Safety...

Learn more about leg protection with information and video presentations on the www.Elvex.com site ( http://www.elvex.com/chainsaw-chaps.htm ). There is a video showing the parameters of the ASTM testing ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btgEjO5YQis&feature=youtube_gdata_player) and also one showing me cutting into a chap leg. When you see the Prolar Pads in action you will agree as I do... Never operate a chainsaw without them!

Good Sawing!

Tim Ard is president of Forest Application Training, Inc. http://www.ForestApps.com . Elvex Safety is a sponsor of Forest Applications Training Programs.

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Planning A Storm

2011-05-31T11:46:00.001-04:00

Planning A Storm
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

To plan a storm… sounds strange doesn't it? We really shouldn’t need to plan a storm; they seem to happen too often and too frequently as it is. There is some type of storm, flood or natural disaster that seems to be taking place somewhere in the U.S. and around the world daily. So why plan?

When the storm hits, no matter what type and where, one of the first tools that’s requested and called into action is guess what? The chainsaw. Thought of to be one of the top dangers of all tool operation, second possibly to only the devastation of the storm itself, is called into action to begin the clean up operations. So why plan? Why plan the storm?

An accident is an unplanned event! So, during storm clean up, here are a few scenarios to consider planning around:

A volunteer, wearing running shoes, steps on a board with a nail in it and punctures his foot through the soft bottom of the shoe.

A volunteer, moves a limb to a pile beside the road, passes another volunteer and the second is struck in the eye.

A man cleaning a lawn, under a willow tree, is hit in the top of the head by a small falling limb and it stabs him in the top of his head causing injury and a quick trip to the emergency room.

A chainsaw operator cuts a storm fallen tree. The root system, bent over underground, and when the trunk is severed the remaining trunk stands rapidly back up. A child was in the area playing while adults were working the tree clean up. The child was crushed and killed under the roots.

A homeowner rushes around his property after a storm trying to pick up debris and remove a fallen tree in his back yard. He approaches the fallen tree and steps on a wire, thinking the power is off, and is electrocuted.

A chainsaw operator with a recently purchased saw was pushing, the now dulling or dull saw, through a limb on a storm fallen tree. The limb was bent and loaded with pressure and when the saw finally made it through the cut the saw was thrown quickly back toward the operator’s left leg. He was rushed to the emergency room.

A storm clean up volunteer was assisting, by pulling brush and limbs to a pile behind a chainsaw operator. As the limb was pulled it caused a pinch of the saw bar and the operator pulled the saw free and into his right leg just above the ankle.
A worker was assisting a chainsaw operator by pulling brush from the debris line. The chainsaw operator turned around, not knowing the position of the worker, and cut the worker pulling brush in the right arm.

A chainsaw operator is cutting a top clear on a wind broken tree when another chainsaw operator decides to fell the standing trunk. The operator on the top is quickly knocked down with his saw to the ground.

I have spoken to many groups over the years on chainsaw applications and most deal with the use of a saw after a storm at some point. The stories above- all came from real stories related to me during breaks and conversations.

I have found, in my experience anyway, that once a storm takes place it’s too late for training. Yes, review can be suggested and plans can be formulated but the information needed to be in practiced regarding saw maintenance and cutting techniques will not be taken into use and reality once the volunteering at the work site begins. Unless, the basis of knowledge is already in place the safety will not be in place.

Safety is an awareness of the things that can cause accidents and injury. You cannot put together a plan to prevent accidents if you are unaware of the issues that may cause them.

Volunteer groups have been organized in several areas across the country for cleanup work on recent floods and tornados. Organizing groups like the Baptist Disaster Relief and Samaritan’s Purse have extensive training programs to train volunteers prior to storm needs. FEMA and the Red Cross teams utilize these organizers as well as their own. However, there are many Church and Civic Organizations that want to help, and because of the many needs, thousands of volunteers approach storm clean up operations with little or no awareness training.

A smaller organizer(s) should work hard to plan the storm! Seek the experience of some of the larger groups for training prior to the need. Understand please that you cannot wait until the need arises to gain the training knowledge and awareness. At a minimum, the need to have key people trained to be able to organize the volunteers and have needed equipment and tools ready to go should be in place.

From a chainsaw operations standpoint:

Have your equipment ready to go. The chainsaw(s) to be used must be in top working condition. The Operator’s Manual should accompany the saw along with any necessary tools specific to the unit. Operators should be familiar with the particular saw type before work begins.

Spare guide bars and saw chains should be with the saw(s) to the storm worksite.

Mixed fuel and chain oil should be located and supplies planned ahead to accomplish the work.

Sharpening systems must be considered and or located and an operator must practice and understand when a chain is sharp and dull. When the chain needs sharpening. A dulled saw chain is relatively more dangerous in storm damage work.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is to be required of all chainsaw operators on the worksite. NO exceptions! Head, eye, ear, hand and leg protective wear as well as boots should be on all chainsaw operators. If volunteers show up with chainsaws they should not use them on the worksite without having proper PPE in place.

A plan of work for the area involving the chainsaw operators should be formulated and supervised by the trained organizing/team leader. The chainsaw operator’s tasks should begin with lead-time from the dragging, brushing and moving debris work. In some cases larger equipment will need to be in place in the plan before ground volunteers/workers are brought into the worksite. The work of pulling and moving the debris must be time spaced after the sawing. It doesn’t have to be more than just a few minutes separated, but distance (time space) needs to be between chainsaws, equipment and workers on the ground moving debris.

Workers do not hold limbs, logs, etc for the chainsaw operator’s to cut.

Large equipment does not hold limbs or logs for chainsaw operators to cut. Move it to location for safe cutting.

Workers/volunteers moving debris by hand should have heavy-duty footwear with traction soles. Preferably high top work boots with ankle support. No running shoes, sneakers or sandals allowed. Safety glasses and work gloves are required. If debris, limbs and standing trees are still over the worksite, hardhats are required. In some site conditions a dust mask is required. According to the task, but especially with tree debris work, long pants and long sleeve shirts are proper work apparel.

You may think of a few more bullet points for storm planning that can be added to these. I am continuing to compile more as I think though what’s needed in different storm scenarios. Elvex Safety has agreed to sponsor and produce a storm planning video to include these thoughts and also the most important cutting techniques related to chainsaw operations. Visit www.forestapps.com and subscribe to our free ChainPoint eNews for more future details.

Forest Applications Training, Inc. is a training company with over 20-years of history specializing in chainsaw applications and safety for logging, tree care, government agencies and disaster relief. Tim Ard is the President and Lead Instructor and has conducted chainsaw training in over 40 states. For information call 770-222-2511 or write info@forestapps.com .

© Copyright 2011 Forest Applications Training, Inc. Reprint with permission acceptable. info@forestapps.com

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Kick Back...

2011-05-02T12:16:00.001-04:00

Kick Back...
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Too often I hear the term used... Someone using a chainsaw and a cut happens to someone's leg or other body area and the culprit is defined as... Kick Back.

Kick Back, from a chainsaw definition, is a reactive force that is produced by the rotating saw chain as it ascends around the upper guide bar nose. When the saw chain is touched or pinched as it goes around this area, the reaction is an upward rotation of the guide bar tip, it rotates upward in the direction the bar is aligned. Too often toward the operator.

It is my own theory, collected from questioning those attending class that have been previously cut with a chainsaw, that many times the term Kick Back has two definitions. The second occurrence is not related to the chainsaw directly, but to what it is cutting. Many times the chainsaw is thrown back toward the operator by the pressures held in the wood material or limb being cut. One such situation is what we describe as a Spring Pole. You can read more about Spring Poles in articles on our website www.ForestApps.com.

Other situations that may cause a saw to be thrown toward the operator may be described as movement caused by side binds, weight and pivots that are sometimes difficult to recognize as we make cuts with the saw on a downed tree. The tree may be over a stump, ridge or other pivot that when cut may come up or go down quickly when the piece is severed. A limb may be held down on the end and when a covering limb or support is severed the movement can be inches or in some cases feet. This quick movement can surprise even the best of us.

The answer to controlling either type of Kick Back? Plan each cut thoroughly. Make sure your footing and body position are such to control any saw movement. Maximize your reaction time by considering the possible movement of the material or the chainsaw. Use a sharp saw chain when working. Pushing and pulling on a saw, because of dull chain, is not something you want to deal with when standing next to material that may be loaded. Pushing may even further load the situation too...

Always wear Personal Protective Equipment when operating a chainsaw. Even the best of plans may miss a little something and could end in an unplanned accident event. PPE can sometimes lessen an injury should an accident occur...

Kick Back of any type is important to understand and your ability and knowledge of it is the key. Read about it in your chainsaw's operators manual and then visit our website for more applications.

More info at www.ForestApps.com

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Chap up...

2011-04-25T10:07:00.001-04:00

Chap Up…

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Chainsaw operators for many years have known about the positive aspects of the leg protective saw chap. Every month though it seems I come across people that didn’t know chaps are available and don’t understand how they work nor their ever increasing need to put them on.

Loggers in the Western USA and the US Forest Service have been using them for decades now and they are increasing in popularity in all the states. Why you say? Because it hurts to be cut by a chainsaw and many of the injuries happen to the operators legs.

Leg protection garments work from what is called the process of jamming. The fiber padding in the chap leg is designed to pull out and jam the chainsaw chain, bar and sprocket to slow the speed of the saw chain and intentionally stop the chain rotation. The process doesn’t mean in every situation that chaps will prevent injury but the intention is to give reaction time and hopefully reduce the injury should the accident occur. I hear almost weekly testimonies of how chaps prevented cuts in accident situations.

Most all leg protection garments have a layered pad of what is called ballistic nylon. These nylon fibers are used in bullet resistant body armor, thus the term ballistic came about. Some are out of a fiber that is white in color and often called warp-knit. Some of the first on the market were from DuPont’s Kevlar® which is a yellow colored fiber. Some others have a combination of both fibers. The fiber is important but the real ability to work with the saw chain is how it’s woven and how the multiple layers are constructed in the pad.

A relatively new padding on the market is available from Elvex Safety. The fiber combination is called Elvex Prolar®. This Prolar® material, used in their leg protection products, is designed specifically for chainsaw leg protection. The material when hit by the moving saw chain pulls out and wraps the saw drive system as others but then it appears to explode (so to speak, it expands) and jams quickly. The result is a new generation Elvex ProChaps tested in compliance by Underwriter’s Laboratories in accordance with ASTM F-1414, Measurement of Cut Resistance to Chain Saw Lower Body Protective Clothing. http://www.elvex.com/forestry-safety-videos.htm

It is important too that leg chaps are comfortable and the design is such that it covers the legs in a fashion that reduces the chance of twist. If the straps are uncomfortable or the position of the leg pad is not positioned correctly, the chain will find its way to your leg. A design that seems to work best with this twist possibility is one called asymmetric. The pad is positioned slightly to the left of the chap leg to aid in preventing the twist, giving more coverage area and reaction time.

Outer materials of the garment you choose is related to the amount of wear you plan. There are lighter weight and heavy weight outer materials, usually of Cordura® fabrics. The pads are the same, so it doesn't effect their protection. There are a variety of sizes and lengths however that can effect safe coverage. You want to make sure to cover from your groin area to the top of your footwear. Also available are full wrap designs that cover the back of the leg, your calf area.

Two labels important to look for when purchasing are the testing classification label and the care instruction label. Make sure your chaps are designed for chainsaw protection and that you can easily clean them when they become soiled. Dirty, oil soaked protection pads may reduce the ability for the chain to pull out the jamming fibers and enable it to better cut through. Keep them clean…

My emphasis during training workshops is to never use your saw without Leg Protection and other important PPE items of Head, Hand, Eye, Ear, Face and Foot Protection. The ever-increasing need I wrote of earlier is simply - it costs more to repair you, a friend or family member, than ever before. Make sure you have it and use it!

For more information visit our website www.ForestApps.com

Storm Training

2011-04-21T07:58:00.001-04:00

Storm Debris Training

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

This article outlines a program that is going very well in our portfolio of training workshops. It is the ideal third level day to our hands-on chainsaw training. The workshop is formatted to follow our two-day workshop on felling because a thorough understanding of planning and the workings of the hinge must be in place to maximize the day in pressures and binds.

The workshop begins with a review of planning the worksite and then focuses on each individual cut made on the downed storm tree. Storm hazards, pressures and binds and then a variety of techniques are shown and explained. Ever used hinges to remove a tree that is wind thrown, hung or up against a cable or object? Are sharpening and adjustments of your chainsaw important? All is covered in this workshop.

The day is formatted with the hands on fieldwork accomplished in teams, which is important to most all storm work. Learn to communicate with others in your team and work the tree with minimum fatigue and avoiding workplace injury.

For more information or schedule a Storm Debris workshop contact or Forest Applications Training, Inc. office. Ph. 770-222-2511 or email info@forestapps.com Contact us today… storms happen daily.

Techniques

2011-04-10T21:44:00.001-04:00

Techniques

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

The past week I have had several great experiences with workshops across Pennsylvania. As always, it is a pleasure to meet and learn from attendees and pick up understandings, new ways of communicating, chainsaw applications and safety for the future. Some thoughts came to me that I would like to share with you… on Technique.

What is a Technique or where do Techniques come from? Technique is a way of doing something that someone has been taught or learned from one’s experience in accomplishing a task. Sound logical?

How do we know what we are using is the best, safest Technique for the application? Is it because we have seen it, believe in it - or is it because we tested with our plan the Technique’s ability to accomplish our task…. Luck or fact? Experience!

I published an article recently on (taking/observing) tree lean information in the planning process. It’s how I was taught to make sure the information of lean, that I observe and confidently place into my felling plan, would afford me accurate results. The way I was instructed seems to be different than a lot of understanding out in the field. I understand there may be other ways to read the weighted lean of a tree but you know the lean is only part of a great, safe and productive way of felling a tree.

So, how do I know a good Technique? What’s right? What’s wrong?

Simply to begin the answer, lean is not a Technique, part of, but not a Technique. It is one of the most important parts of forming a complete plan and final Technique selection. It remains the hardest part of tree felling for most of us to grasp. It’s a major reason trees go directionally wrong. Because of lean we commonly find our position to be in the wrong place and someone or our saw pinched by the unexpected movement of the tree.

Now, to pass along my thoughts of the Technique selection process I have to better understand every part. For making my point, I am choosing to seek a better platform or illustration of the way lean effects the Technique used in felling a tree.

Technique Exercise

To complete the experiment you will need (1) a string and (2) a weight of some type on the end of the string. You also need (3) a piece of paper with a line drawn on it or a line drawn on the ground. Ready?

Make a plumb line by attaching the weight to the string. Allow the weight to swing free on the string. You have now built a plumb line that will designate a measure of gravitational pull. The weight now centers itself to the earth.

Draw a line on a piece of paper or the ground. That line represents your holding wood or hinge on the stump of your tree. It’s the pivot point or fulcrum on the stump that the tree will pivot on, forward or back. This exercise is illustrating only forward or back lean. (If the hinge does not break and holds the tree attached, the side weight is not a factor in the fall. As with a door, the tree will pivot to the targeted latch on the hinge).

Hold the plumb line in your hand above and on the line (hinge). Your hand represents the center of the crown of the tree. Now line up the plumb line with the line on the ground. At this position your tree is perfectly straight, balanced on the hinge.

Now move your treetop (hand) backward. You have just moved your tree crown’s center weight behind the pivot. The weight of your tree and crown just became back lean.

Move your treetop (hand) forward. You have just moved your tree crown into a forward position in relationship to your pivot hinge. Your tree just became a forward leaner.

Just as you could not deny or change the reading of gravity by your plumb line, you cannot deny the fact that the center weight of your tree crown, in relation to the pivot line (hinge), places the center of your crown into a forward or back lean condition.

Understanding the above, the face notch does not make the tree lean, tilt or swing. The notch allows the hinge to work during the pivot on the hinge but doesn’t change the trees weight movement. With this understanding, if your back cut is not considering the forward or back weight movement in position of the hinge, you will lose control of the tree or the tree will set down on your chainsaw bar. The tree must be supported (wedge or rope) or lifted forward from back lean positions.

Not to have an unplanned, accident event… you must look for Hazards and obstacles, measure and note the two Leans, prepare and use an Escape or retreat path, have a clear plan of Hinge placement and dimension and finally Back cut the fiber up to the hinge, supporting the tree or releasing the tree at a preplanned predetermined time.

Before you begin cutting – Prepare and wear your P.P.E. Make sure your saw is up to condition. If you do not know these, review your manufacturers’ operator’s manual before you pull the starter rope.

There’s not a reason to debate other issues of tree falling until you understand how to measure the two leans and assess the other areas of plan information to form a solid Technique.

I hope this article helps? Questions or comments? Contact Tim by email TimArd@ForestApps.com

Visit www.forestapps.com for more information on planning, techniques and training the operator in chainsaw applications.

Clearing the Road

2011-03-28T09:33:00.001-04:00

Clearing the Road
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

If a storm or natural process leaves debris for you to utilize your chainsaw skills on, what do you do? The treetop is in the road and you and your saw have to make movable pieces of it. Where you start may mean the difference between a little work and a lot of hard risky work. It could even mean injury or death to you or someone else with you.

So what do we do? How do we make a plan to complete this task the quickest and best that it can be done and safely...?

In most implementations of the storm cleanup process I see (and hear of), the operators simply grab a chainsaw, start it up and begin cutting the end of the tree that's over the road. Sound familiar? Is there another way?

A couple thoughts, I guess you could call them techniques; I've come to appreciate...

• Look over the situation at hand from several angles. Walk around and identify any hazards overhead and around the project. Are there saplings or limbs bent over creating spring poles in the work area.
• Identify any possibility of roll over or twisted side binds that you see. Could your feet and legs be quickly swept out from under you by side-to-side a movement?
• Is the trunk and now horizontal canopy going to come down with each cut or may that cut unleash up pressure that may come at you.
• What about backpressure from limbs imbedded and pushing back or the possibility of the tree sliding forward or down an embankment.
• Know the top four information steps before you make a cut. Repeat them over and over as you plan and execute each cut.
• Make sure your chainsaw is running up to the manufacturers specs and that your saw chain is sharp and cutting at it's best. Pushing and pulling are not techniques that are neither beneficial nor safe when cutting downed debris.

Does your plan begin at the crown in the road? Could it be that you could better accomplish the task to clear the road or area by starting at the butt of the tree? People ask me all the time what I mean with that statement. I will try to clarify...

• If I start at the end or crown of many trees it constitutes the need to cut high, sometimes higher than you should without a pole saw. Never cut above your shoulders with the saw and if you have to lift the saw a little high, make sure to turn the bar almost sideways to eliminate being right in line with the reactive kick-back forces and the cutting chain. Don't just cut with the spinning chain pointed right inline with your head and body. When you lift the saw very high or up and down often fatigue rises quickly. Fatigue and saw work do not mix well, like drinking, fatigue and driving.
• When you cut the limbs of the crown from the end, you generally have to cut and then stop and pull them out and down and maybe even out of the way.
• The limb ends, or top pieces, are usually smaller diameter and vibrate as the chain pulls them about. This increases chances of chain derailing and limbs throwing the saw about, usually at a level even with the upper body.
• More cuts on small limbs have to be made to start at the top.

The Alternative
• Begin at the butt end. It may be that you can start right at the stump. It often is better in your plan to move up the trunk to the edge of the road or first major crotch to begin the process. Try not to pass any limbs unless you are using them as support or scotches.
• When removing limbs up the trunk it's easier to maintain saw control at a lower level. You can work up the trunk removing limbs and having room to move and leaving some debris until you're out of the immediate area before swamper’s move it. Leaving the debris momentarily can even be used as roll protection or support. Moving should be practiced with the chain brake engaged and make sure to have a plan in mind and stabile footing before making the next cut.
• The neat part of de-limbing up the trunk direction is that you can severe the limb close to the trunk and in many cases the swamper can pull the limb right out of the road or back to the chipper without having to cut so many times. Limb direction can easily be changed too without having to do so much manhandling to get it off the road. Many trees you can remove and drag less that a dozen limbs to clear the road instead of fifty cuts on small pieces, making fifty trips to the roadside or chipper.

Just step back and look at your next tree cleanup project and you will see what I mean...

Please think about this too - Only one person with a saw on the tree until the tree is stabilized. You do not want one person cutting the trunk and another cutting limbs until these two sections are disconnected and stabile.

You don't want anything to roll over on another sawyer or someone pulling brush. Make sure to give enough distance between the sawyer and the swamper or brush tender.

Don't hold limbs waiting on them to be cut. Let the cuts be made, then come in when the Sawyer requests your help. Working too close together or trying to hurry the process and saw contact is inevitable.

Always wear Your Personal Protective Equipment when you operate a chain saw. Head, eye, ear, gloves, leg protection and boots are the best insurance you can have against personal injury, along with a complete cutting plan.

For more on this topic and many other chain saw safety thoughts and techniques visit www.ForestApps.com

Tim Ard is president of Forest Applications Training, Inc. Contact Tim with any questions or for further explanations at info@ForestApps.com. We specialize in training operators of outdoor power equipment at city, county and state levels nationwide.

© Copyright 2011 Forest Applications Training, Inc.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Lean or Not

2011-03-10T18:07:00.001-05:00

Lean or Not...

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

One of the toughest information areas for me to learn regarding falling trees was to understand lean. I find today in my workshops this is true for most people.

I used to try to look up the trunk and move around the base of the tree trying to see where the tree wants to go. Lean is noticeable with trees using this technique, but what about those that are not so lean descriptive?

Soren Eriksson finally got it through my head, after a couple of the first years training together, that trees lean 360 degrees and if you expect the tree to do and go where you want it to, you must pick the place to put it and discern the lean to that spot.

Lean is actually determined in relationship to the position of the face notch and controlling hinge. Realizing there are two leans that you have to recon with in relation to the hinge position, you must put yourself in two positions to take lean information. You should take the side lean from or in line with your proposed lay/target location. The second, forward or back lean, is taken from a position perpendicular or simply 90 degrees to the target. This gives you the knowledge of where the crowns weight leans in relationship to the fulcrum or pivot point in the proposed fall, the hinge....

If the center weight line of the crown, standing in line with your target or lay, falls to the side of the center line of the tree base, it has side lean in that direction. If the center weight of the crown, standing in a position 90 degrees to the target, falls toward the target side of your hinge position, it leans forward. If the line falls behind the hinge position, the tree leans back.

Yes, the tree can be affected by things like wind, intertwined or pushing limbs, etc., but if not effected by those things, gravity will prevail and the tree will fall to your informed leaning position if the notch and hinge perform correctly.

The Technique

To determine leans effectively I have found it beneficial to point. When standing in the target/lay position, take your right index finger and point to the farthest limb stretching to the right side of the trees crown. Hold that position. Now, point with your left index finger to the farthest limb out the left side. Hold that position. Find a visual point between those two finger points in the middle of the tree crown. I simply bring my two fingers equally to the center of the two points and that's the top position of my plumb line. I then follow a plumb straight line to the base of the tree. Where that line falls in relation to the trunk and hinge is the measured lean. From the perpendicular position do the same for the forward or back lean reading.

This can become a very quick and accurate way of taking true leans with very little practice. People ask, what if this or that... Like if the trunk leans the opposite way of the limbs? Again, it is the most accurate way of calculating leans. You will be amazed at how balance heavy the limbs are. The trunk most often will be following the lead of the limb weight. Even if it doesn't, the limbs will usually rule the lean reading. If you can't determine a definite lean, treat it as back lean and you will never be surprisingly stuck in the tree...

Remember, lean is only a portion of the needed information before attempting to fell a tree. Review information on our website at www.ForestApps.com and your chain saw operators instruction manual for other important things to consider before attempting a chainsaw task. Always wear personal protective equipment (PPE) when running a chainsaw and working in a forest, wooded area and or storm clean up. If you don’t feel comfortable or can formulate a complete plan- contact a professional. Saving time or money on one or even more trees is not worth serious injury or death.

Practice this lean information technique a few times. You will find, as I and many others have, that lean never lies. It's either lean or it's not...

Tim Ard is President of Forest Applications Training, Inc., a leading training company for all chain saw safety and applications. For more information about chain saw training browse www.forestapps.com or website or contact us at info@ForestApps.com . Follow ForestApps on Twitter and Face Book as Forest Applications.

Pre-Saw

2011-01-31T07:46:00.001-05:00

Pre-Saw Checklist
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

If you are a Pilot...
If you are Truck Driver...
A Motorcyclist...
Or a Sawyer...

There is an important part of the duty that has to happen before the action begins. You have to take the time, before the start, to look over the saw and take it apart. The things we find will keep us safe and make us smart!

Somewhat of an abbreviated version of what we call Preventive Maintenance or Reduced Down Time Maintenance. The Pre-Saw Walk Around or Checklist will make your next chainsaw driving experience a much more enjoyable one.

It's simple, it takes very little time before you begin but it will save time and money in the end! (What's up with all the rhymes...? Hopefully to get your memory to retain this important message).

Check These...

Functional Safety Features
Chain Brake, Throttle Interlock and Chain Catch checked for operation and function.

Breathing and Cooling
Air Filter System, Cylinder Cooling Fins and General Cleaning must happen.

No Cracks, Leaks or Loose Screws
Look over your chainsaw for loose or missing screws and fasteners. Make note of any oil or fuel leaks and make sure they are repaired before use.

Starting
The starter rope, grip and starter system is engaging properly and without wear and damage that will keep you safely starting your saw multiple times at the work site.

Saw Chain, Guide Bar and Sprocket
Check for sprocket wear at the drive sprocket and the guide bar tip sprocket. Check for straight bar rails. Clean the rails of any debris buildup. Your saw chain must be sharp. Look for any bent or broken cutter teeth, rivets or tie straps.

Run Check
The chainsaw should start within 7 to 10 pulls if your controls are positioned, your fuel fresh and carburetor settings are proper. Your saw should idle without the chain turning or creeping around the bar. It should idle without dying and in all positions. When you depress the throttle, the engine speed should increase quick and level out at top speed to what is known as flutter.

Equipment
Before you pull the rope and especially before you approach the wood, put on your PPE. A hardhat, safety glasses, visible protective vest, gloves, leg protection and heavy duty boots are your cheapest insurance. PPE will hopefully reduce an injury should the occurrence of an unplanned event take place.

Your Equipment Owners Manual's will cover this information for your specific Chain Saw. Familiarize yourself with the information it contains, review it often.

More information can be found on our website www.ForestApps.com or contact us by email at info@ForestApps.com There are also detailed explanations of chainsaw related tasks in our Forest Applications eBook, The Complete Guide to Chain Saw Safety and Directional Felling. Links are found on our website for purchase of the eBook from our eStore or from Barnes and Noble Booksellers.

(C) Copyright 2011 Forest Applications Training, Inc.

To Start...

2011-01-24T14:55:00.001-05:00

To Start

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

New operators and seasoned professionals all begin the chain sawing process the same way... they pull the starter cord. Smile! Interestingly though - do they do it the same way?

Everyone knows the chainsaw and many other two-cycle powered engines; all start by pulling on a starter rope and handle. You simply turn the power switch on and pull the rope right?

I've noticed a few things in my training workshops that make a big difference in the results of the pull.

Familiarize yourself with the switches.

Every chainsaw has controls. Operators must familiarize themselves with the controls of the saw brand and even sometimes between models. There are three settings that are on all units, but many times there are two or three ways they design them.

Look for the on/off switch or switch position. You need to know where the specific switch position is located to quickly turn the saw off, to stop the engine. Make sure you check its position before you start to pull the rope. The saw will not start with the switch off. You are saying... Duh, right? Well I can't tell you how many times I have had to tell operators TRYING to start the saw to turn on the switch. Honestly, I've caught myself once... :)

Saws have a fast idle button or a position of the controls that hold the trigger slightly depressed. This opens the carburetor airflow just a bit to make it a little easier to start a cold or a flooded engine. Yes, it does the same thing as holding down the throttle when pulling a rope during an air start. It's possible with this fast idle feature to eliminate a lot of problem starts.

One often overused, but very necessary when the engine is cool, is the choke lever or choke position. This feature closes the flow of air a bit through the carburetor and causes the intake stroke of the piston to pull in a little more fuel. A cold or cool saw needs to be choked but a warm one... Don't choke it.

If you pull a couple times on the starter rope with the choke on a warm saw, you have flooded it, probably requiring many pulls to clean the rich condition and start the engine.

Make sure you have fresh, properly mixed fuel in the tank.

Petrol loses its poof. Gasoline kept too long in a container or saw tank will lose some of its volatility and simply won't go bang properly in the combustion area. Gasoline you have mixed with oil (fuel) for your chainsaw, will sit and separate. This can be very detrimental to your engine parts requiring lubrication. Ethanol fuel will also collect moisture from the air and cause multiple problems with your saws health. I recommend mixing your fuel in the amount you plan to use within a couple weeks and buy gas with as little or no ethanol at the highest octane rating you can pump. Pre-mixed, stabilized, canned two-cycle fuel is a very good way to go! Fresh Mixed Fuel is an important issue with your starting.

Position the saw for stable starting.

I know I'm going to get a lot of you saying I'm not real world and mamby pamby when I say this but here it is…. Grabbing a chainsaw with one hand, the starter rope in the other and slinging a ten-pound or more chainsaw outward, downward or whatever direction you sling it as a safe and stable starting position is WRONG. It not only causes excessive rope wear and starter damage, it is not a safe practice.

I have started small engines and handheld tools for over 35 yrs. and I have done it without dropping or air starting. There are thousands of others who start without the drop!

Place the saw on the ground if possible. Make sure though to hold the front handle down and your foot in the rear handle, or your knee on the rear handle, to stabilize the saw before you pull the rope. I feel that's the reason many operators drop start. The bending and pulling is tough sometimes.

A very controlled alternative is the clamp start method. Chain brake on, set controls, clamp the rear handle between your knees and hold the front handle with your left hand, reach through and grab the starter grip with your right hand and pull the rope. You can see illustrations and videos on our website. This is one of the best-controlled and safe ways to start a chainsaw in my opinion.

Pulling too much.

If you pull a chainsaw or other small engine rope more than 7 to 10 pulls and it's not running, something's wrong! Go back and check controls, fuel, etc., don't just keep pulling….

Starting with the chain brake engaged.

I've heard all kinds of opinions but the best one I am of aware of is why not? Engaging the chain brake reduces the chance of the chain spinning at start up and you lose control of it and an accident occurs. Yes, the start may be at fast idle and the clutch will heat up quickly, but if you recognize that, you can just twitch the throttle and the saw should idle down and the clutch will disengage. The pros greatly out weight the cons of this technique.

Wear your PPE

Stop! Don't pull the rope until your Personal Protective Equipment is in place. Don't take the chance that you are without accident potential. Anyone can miss something in his or her plan or an outside influence can take place and you will experience a 100% of the consequences. PPE can lessen injury severity potential greatly.

Read your operator's manual.

Read, familiarize yourself and review often the material and information your equipment manufacturer has supplied to you. They do this for a reason- Your Satisfaction and Safety.

Good Sawing!

Tim Ard is President and Lead Instructor of Forest Applications Training, Inc. For more information on our training and services visit www.ForestApps.com or email info@ForestApps.com

Old Gas...

2011-01-17T10:14:00.001-05:00

Old Gas…

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Questions keep coming up on fuel related issues by email and during training presentations. The issues involving gasoline and gasoline with ethanol are on everyone’s topic list and most have experienced some form of negative from it.

Shops are full of equipment that have been stored several months with ethanol fuel in the tank or operators are pouring in fuel from their gas can not thinking about how “dead” the old fuel is and how much moisture has collected while sitting around.

With 10% or more ethanol fuel being the norm now at the station pump, it is affecting us more this year than ever. In years past the stations were here and there with ethanol fuel, now just about every station is selling only ethanol-enriched fuel. Luckily the 15% and more ratios are not in place yet or we would really be feeling the effects.

I’ve mentioned before how ethanol fuels, of more than about 12%, will not adjust in your small equipment, especially two-cycle chainsaws and trimmers. It collects moisture that works to separate the oil in your mixture and when it sits around, erodes fuel lines, aluminum/magnesium parts in your carburetor and engine crankcase. It also causes the combustion process to detonate when it looses volatility, pounding on your internal engine parts of piston, rod and bearings and it leans out the carburetor adjustments. Even in its in-between stages it causes over speeding concerns too that can end in seizure of your piston and cylinder.

You need to seek fuel without ethanol. If not, use some type of stabilizer or enzyme formula that will help to deal with some of these problems. Be careful however, that you read directions carefully and mix everything as it’s meant to be or you can create other problems. I feel one of the greatest and easiest ways to deal with the two-cycle fuel issue is to use a premixed fuel such as TruSouth Oil’s 50Fuel or TruFuel products.

I have a saw that was used during our train the trainer workshop the middle of last April (2010). I put the saw up in the shop with a tank half full of 50Fuel. I took it to Florida to use at the Amsler’s Saw Safety Day. I was a little concerned that it wouldn’t start so I made sure I loaded a working backup. I was a little skeptical to say the least.

I decided for my confidence to put 50Fuel on the spot, to start the saw for the first time at the demo in Brooksville in front of the crowd. I remind you this saw has been sitting with 50Fuel in the tank for over 8 months without ever being started.

I pulled the rope on the saw three times. It started and ran like it has always! TruSouth Oil’s 50Fuel is an awesome product! I highly recommend you use it as many companies and individual saw operators are today. You will find you can afford it!

Good Sawing!

Twisted...

2011-01-06T07:13:00.001-05:00

Twisted...
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Ice and snow take down limbs and trees on regular occurrence. The weight takes it's toll on limbs and root systems with any weakness... They topple. When this storm situation takes place it's a job for the chainsaw, and possibly new skills for the operator.

Make sure when you approach these fallen debris piles that you form a comprehensive plan before starting the saw. Some considerations:

1. A sharp chain, you don't want to be pushing on the debris while cutting.

2. Back up and observe the area. Look for overhead hazards- hanging limbs and or power lines than may be down and around.

3. Observe any potential roll or side pressures that might be released when you make a cut.

4. Is it possible up or down movement of the limb or log could take place? Are there pivot limbs or ground/terrain issues that may cause up or down movement.

5. What is the potential for back pressures. Are the limb tips up against another object causing back pressure? Can the log or tree slide up or down an incline? Are the roots bent back user pressure that can cause lift?

6. With these info/plan areas observed put on all your PPE of head, eye, ear, hand, leg and foot protection BEFORE you make a cut.

Remember that wedges can be used in bucking and limbing, not just in felling...

Good Sawing!

More information http://www.ForestApps.com Sign up for our ChainPoint eNewsletter on our website...

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Prolar by Elvex

2010-12-14T22:21:00.001-05:00

A few days ago during video work for the Elvex Corporation I cut into a leg chap with a Stihl 361 chainsaw running full throttle. The chap wasn't on my leg luckily, I had strapped it to a log simulating my leg. In my findings however, it would have been a positive experience.

Chaps are not designed to be cut proof but hopefully do reduce injury should an accident occur.

The Elvex Chap, made of Prolar pads, totally amazed me. I have cut into many a chap leg over the years at shows and training events. Some have cut through slightly and some have stopped the saw and didn't cut through. The cut I made this time in the Elvex ProChap stopped the saw with only 3 to 4 of the Prolar pad layers. This combination of woven and felt material is a winning combination!

You should always wear leg protection when operating a chainsaw. It only takes a millisecond to have an accident that can damage you and change life forever.

Read more on Elvex products at www.Elvex.com and at www.ForestApps.com

Good Sawing,
Tim Ard

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

A Bar Tip...

2010-12-05T23:11:00.002-05:00

A Bar Tip...

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

For viewing the article with photos click this link

If I were to offer you a tip on chainsaw operation that is most misunderstood it would be the one discussed here in this writing. I strongly believe that every chainsaw operator should know how to efficiently and effectively use the technique. I don't believe every operator should use it, but all should be aware. I hear about situations, and sometimes injury incidents, that occur from the lack of use of this tip. Often I hear that it should never be used by some, but I think more issues occur from the lack of its use. The Tip - Use the tip of the bar to create a bore or plunge cut.

First, as told over and over, a chainsaw operator needs to completely understand the reactive forces of the chainsaw. On top of the bar is push back, on the bottom side is pull in and on the upper tip is Kick Back. Familiarize yourself with these reactions in your owners manual or visit http://www.forestapps.com/tips/tips.htm . You must be aware and know how to control the use of the bar tip to perform the bore cut technique.

Understanding the above, why is it a technique that can be considered safe for a trained operator to use? The danger is as much or more in the nonuse as it is in the use. Let me explain what I mean here. If you are not aware of what can cause a dangerous situation you cannot choose to avoid it in your planning and execution of the task. You may always choose to not do something, if you are aware of why not...

This year in training workshops I have seen the need for the tip to prevent possible injury. The operator planned the task. They had a very complete plan of surrounding hazards, lean recognition of the tree, how to cut and have an escape route. They had a clear picture how much hinge or holding wood they wanted to maintain. They chose a commonly used back cut, starting from the back of the trunk. I was concerned with the heavy forward lean of the tree and asked them to consider a bore cut to remove the center fiber of the tree and establish the hinge or holding wood first. This process to make sure to not have more than 10% of the trees diameter in hinge width.

The trees were virtually impossible to cut, fast enough, and eliminate what happened. They were hurriedly unaware of the results to quickly follow. The pictures surrounding the article depict the outcome. All operators remained unharmed and alive, other than near heart failure from the surprise and high PuckerFactor that accompanied the completion of the plan.

Why did these situations occur? Probable answer - The weight of the tree caused the fiber to split up the trunk faster than the saw operator could reduce the thickness of the splitting fiber of the moving, falling trunk. If they would have been positioned behind the trunks or didn't retreat fast enough, there would have met injury or death. So it is so important that chainsaw operator's know how to deal with this dangerous situation or don't attempt to cut a tree.

What could have be done to complete the tree removal safely? That would be contingent on the information taken but a few of the options...

1. Have the tree removed from the top down.

2. Remove some of the limbs to decrease the weighted lean.

3. Use a bore or plunge cut to produce the hinge first and release the tree with the back strap.

To accomplish any of these three solutions you must involve yourself in training, planning and practice.

The bore cut technique is not new and was introduced to me by Soren Eriksson. It has been around since modern design chainsaws. If you are uncertain about its strengths and assets, in my opinion, is because you have never planned and used it. It is not a professional or advanced technique, it is a basic technique. Not a technique to necessarily use every tree, but especially to know when too. That's your Tip! Use the Tip! Good Sawing!

The bore cut technique can be seen illustrated in Tim's Tips on the www.ForestApps.com website and in our eVideo DVD and YouTube videos.

Our Action

2010-11-28T20:32:00.001-05:00

Our Action
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training Inc.

What is it thats thought to be so hazardous about chainsaw use? Often when people hear what I do they say something like, "do you still have all your limbs" or "a lot of people need that!" I guess this thought process is rightfully so as the CDC published a statement that said there are 36,000 chainsaw incidents a year occurring across the nation. That's just over 98 incidents per day! Most of the incidents that I hear are usually credited to the saws reactive forces of Kick Back, Push Back and Pull In.

A phrase I came up with years ago, that I use often, goes something like this, "I believe the majority of cuts or lacerations from a chainsaw happen not as much from the reactive forces of the saw but our reaction to its action."

What does this mean? In most of the explanations behind incidents, people share with me in my travels, there is a common thread that I hear coming through. I have listed some of what I hear...

I was stepping over a log...
I slipped and lost my footing...
The saw went through the limb and right into my knee...
I was moving some brush and my hand hit the chain...
The saw slipped off the limb...
I was moving brush and limbs for my friend that was sawing...
I was cutting some brush and the saw kicked and hit my leg...
The saw kicked and came right back into my shoulder...

What can we do to clearly understand and learn from these communications?

Check to make sure the limbs and logs we plan to cut are not in bind or under pressure that might be released, throwing the saw or causing us to lose control of the chainsaw.

Make sure the saw chain is sharp. Having to apply heavy pressure to the chainsaw to cut makes it much more difficult to react to any unplanned actions. The saw chain should cut the wood with very little or no pressure applied from the operator. It should cut about an inch of material per second. If not, it's time to sharpen.

When stepping over or really taking a step with a running chainsaw, use the chain brake as a parking brake. Simply let the saw idle, apply the brake, and your chances of contacting a moving chain is reduced. Moving around with a chain turning is a sure incident invitation.

Take care in selecting your footwear for the task. Heavy duty boots with hard toes, ankle support and good traction soles are important. If you work daily with a chainsaw you should consider the above with the addition of chainsaw resistance added to the design.

Keep both hands on the chainsaw at all times unless the chain brake is applied or the switch is in the off position.

Maximize your distance from the saw chain at all times. Watch and plan your position so as to give you as much reaction time as possible before you begin a cut. Don't lean over the cuts and always balance your weight on your feet to be able to control the forces of the saw and your balance.

Never cut with the saw above shoulder height while looking in line with the spinning bar and chain. When cutting vines or clearing low limbs turn the saw to the sided or on an angle, so as to not align yourself without the guide bar. A great tool for this task may be a pole saw instead.

Never cut a limb or any other material with someone holding it. Stand back from a chainsaw operator when they are cutting a minimum of 10ft. When the operator completes the cut then the material can be removed from the work area.

Personal Protective Equipment consisting of hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves and proper footwear offer the best insurance you can buy to reduce injury should an accident occur. Consider it part of a chainsaw investment.

Read and or re-read your owner's manual to familiarize yourself with your saws controls and other safety information it contains. This is especially true if you only use your chainsaw occasionally. Any tool will work better with practice.

If you would like to know more about available training programs for chainsaw applications visit http://www.ForestApps.com

Tim Ard is a nationally recognized chain saw applications and training instructor with over 30 years of experience in communicating the mechanics and use of the chainsaw. He is founder and president of Forest Applications Training, Inc. He can be reached for questions at info@ForestApps.com

(C) Copyright 2010 Forest Applications Training, Inc.

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Thanksgiving...

2010-11-22T08:47:00.001-05:00

I hope you are all set for a great week of Family, Friends and Turkeys!

Laura and I wish all of you the best during this Thanksgiving Time. We are so thankful for all of you and for the Magnormous Abundance God allows us to partake of in our training endeavors.

The article this week is regarding a few thoughts on the use of wedges and rope in your tree work. It can also be found on my Blog at www.ForestApps.blogspot.com pass it along to friends and workers.

I am pleased to announce a new endorsement relationship for 2011 with Elvex Corporation and its safety products. If you are not familiar, check them out at www.Elvex.com They have been producing PPE for Chainsaw Operators for many years and other safety items in several work industries. ForestApps will be assisting them with product marketing, dealer and distributor PPE education and most of all having a great time using their products and working with their great Elvex Team! I have been using Elvex products for about a year now and I am impressed with the design and quality. They will impress you too!

The upcoming week is a great time to look over items in our eStore for your holiday gift giving. Let me recommend or in stock items-- my Cross-Sight Height Gauge, The ForestApps eBook, Jeff Jepson’s To Fell a Tree, Original PFERD ChainSharp Tool’s and Elvex PPE. Just click the eStore link for our website – www.ForestApps.com

Next week Rob Lagerstrom and I will be working to produce a new group of product awareness and use videos for Elvex here at my shop in GA. These videos, on several facets of PPE, will be available on the internet and DVD for your training use and viewing pleasure. If you would like to put your name on the list for these when they are completed, send me an email with Elvex Videos in the subject line and we will keep you personally updated as to when they are ready. The videos will be free to the first requesting... info@ForestApps.com

And Thursday – Gobble Up!

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard
Forest Applications Training, Inc.

O 770.222.2511

Wedges and Rope...

2010-11-19T21:59:00.001-05:00

Wedges and Rope...
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

I have used wedges in directional felling of trees almost exclusively since my learning years with Soren Eriksson. He taught me to calculate how many wedges and what they can do; wedges assisting in lifting and supporting trees during the felling process.

When beginning to train with a lot of tree care and storm related workshops, I began to learn from the Arborist's the value of ropes and rigging. How to calculate what is necessary to understand the limitations and the right knot or attachment accessory to make the rope assist successful.

A Participant in a class recently explained it and defined my stand completely on Wedges and Rope work with trees... Don Roppolo said, "I always use a wedge when rope is used in felling a tree, but I don't always use a rope when I use a wedge."

Both the wedge and the rope do basically the same thing- they assist to lift or support a tree to a desired felling plan.

The wedge in felling can afford the chainsaw operator the ability to finish, or set up the felling cuts without the tree binding the saw. This eliminates the need to have someone or something pulling on a rope, while the sawyer is cutting, to keep the tree from binding the saw. The rope is a great tool if there is resistance in the top of the tree and to reduce the hammering of the wedge work.

I hope you realize the wedge or the rope will not steer a tree to a targeted lay. The notch and hinge is the control and steering in the plan.

How to place the wedge? How many wedges? How far to pull and just how much rope do you need?

It all starts to come together as you complete the plan...

For answers and or more information visit www.ForestApps.com

Good Sawing!

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

PFERD ChainSharp CS-X

2010-11-15T13:02:00.001-05:00

I have written a new article outlining the first impressions of the NEW ChainSharp tool from PFERD.

http://www.ForestApps.com/articles/PFERDChainsharpCS-XSharpeningSawChainforHomeTreeCareLoggingArboristsFirewood.htm

PFERD CS-X

Good Sawing,
Tim Ard

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Collect, Prepare and Promote

2010-11-07T15:43:00.001-05:00

Collect, Prepare, Promote

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

I am so fortunate to be part of an occupation and the operations of collecting, preparing and promoting information that eventually makes someone’s life easier, more efficient, profitable and hopefully safer. In whatever you endure and pursue in life the most gratifying is when you are afforded the opportunity to hear of and see positive results of your efforts. For someone’s life and wellbeing to be transformed by your actions and knowledge.

Years now I have been making an annual, sometimes bi-annual, trip to New England to hold workshops. From a training standpoint it has evolved from basic chain saw safety demonstrations, to having several three-day totally committed programs. Organizers are always striving to have large numbers of attendees at the demonstrations and to fill the specific programs. We by design know chain saw safety demonstrations were, and still are today, to excite attendees to continue forward. Continue forward with what training is all about - hands on events, then followed by practice and application. This makes training worth the time, cost and effort. The organizers in New England have done an awesome job with building an amazing training culture. People seem to love training in New England.

The training process related to any chainsaw application or operation doesn’t however end with the last day of a workshop or program. The process must continue in practice, updates and a continued search by the organizers and participants to stay aware, strengthening their safety culture - collecting, preparing and promoting.

Collect- Training in chainsaw applications and safety is a collection of processes. The process of collecting and understanding what you need in equipment, technique and application to make it all work with and for the person that picks up a chain saw.

Prepare –Training should prepare the chain saw user for the future task or operation. It must provoke them to think and plan, excite them to find out more and to use what they learn. It should prepare and provide them with a basis to build upon.

Promote –Training must promote a work habit, one that is used, spreads and grows from the inception. If it’s not fluid, if its not alive, the training will not evolve into a culture. Great training will and should be magically promoted by attendees to other work partners, crew, company and or organization.

Where to begin?

Well back to the chain saw safety demonstration. If it is to work successfully, training must excite an attendee to seek more. The first step of training according to most manufacturers and even OSHA is the operator’s manual. This is the written handbook or guide that accompanies the product. This product instruction manual usually covers basic switches, function basics, maintenance outlines and most likely any concerns involving generic safety of the item or product. All of you are very familiar with this information right? That’s the same with the second step and the reason for the large demonstration. It’s the second step in the process. It covers some basics in demonstration.

At 2am in the morning, with your headlights on a tree across the road, most likely you are not going to pull the owners manual out of your back pocket to review. It’s the reason to continue on with your training advancement to pick up processes or techniques to handle a different task easier.

That’s why it must be a culture like…. Collect, Prepare and Promote.

I present the reason for Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), how the products work, the design and why it’s needed. I’ve done this in every demonstration I have made for years. The attendees are asked if they have chainsaw leg protection available and use it? If they do have it, over 70% don’t raise their hand that they use it every time they operate a chainsaw.

What about the other stuff- Hardhats, safety glasses, hearing protection?

It’s not a culture until it exists and is habit! More Collect, Prepare and Promote is necessary. Our ForestApps training can help you successfully change these issues.

Find out more on training and chainsaw related applications and safety at www.ForestApps.com Contact- info@ForestApps.com or 770.222.2511

Twitter- @ForestApps Face Book- Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Tectra Helmet

2010-10-27T17:29:00.004-04:00

Safety Cap gets Product of the year award!

Elvex new Tectra safety cap challenges the appearance and functionality of traditional safety caps.

Tectra offers a choice of ventilated or dielectric versions, as well as pin-lock and ratchet suspensions. The helmet is designed especially to accept accessories Tested to ANSI Z89.1-2009.

http://www.elvex.com/sc-50.htm

Updates...

2010-10-18T17:01:00.001-04:00

Some updates…

Ethanol Fuel

The powers that be have approved the sale of E-15 fuel. This means that distributors and retailers can begin to market 15% Ethanol fuel through fuel stations across USA. They did so with a stipulation that the pumps must be marked with use in 2007 vehicles and newer. That’s going to create some confusion with auto fill-ups and especially, because they don’t say anything about us little engine users, require big time carburetor changes and possibly even more engine failure problems.

As I have mentioned, in previous articles on fuel, most two-cycles in the field will adjust to 10% Ethanol fuel. However, current equipment carburetor adjustments will not meter the 15%+ range. The adjusting screws are set to be lean on today’s carburetors and the fuel flow orifices are rather small. You can’t open the screws wide enough to allow the Ethanol fuel through at 15%+. It causes the engines to run lean in most all situations.

Next is the higher the Ethanol content, the more moisture is collected in the fuel system and storage facilities. This separates gas from oil in your mix and causes havoc with aluminum and magnesium parts, like carburetor body castings. Also the solvent action of the Ethanol deteriorates the rubber fuel lines and seals. More careful inspections and rotating fuel supplies are going to be required.

Seek out Non-Ethanol fuel sources as soon as you can!

TruFuel50

I was a little concerned about carrying a case of TruFuel in the truck on our recent trip to Colorado. You know when you go up in elevation; almost 11,000ft where we drove, the contents of canned goods sometimes becomes over pressurized and pops something… like the tops. Well, we didn’t have any leaks at the elevations. The fuel ran super also! The saws all ran great at the high elevations and the dryer humidity. I really like this stuff! They have a new website up www.TruFuel50.com Check it out. They are also on Twitter now @TruFuel50

Woolpower

The folks at Gransfors Bruks are ready to get you warmed up for winter with their Woolpower products. These socks and undergarments, as well as jackets, are some great investments for the winter months to come. You can link off our website to theirs (Homepage or eStore).

Stihl MS230

I am impressed with this saw for home use and some government storm work. The saw is small but with the PowerSharp kit from Oregon it pulls chips very well. I have cut and dulled the PowerSharp chain, then sharpened it in a few seconds, over and over. Amazing system. I will also say that the chain that came on this Stihl unit, the Picco Duro is also pretty sharp… its gonna be hard to beat the quick sharpening of the PowerSharp chain though.

Elvex

I’m going by to meet with Elvex management next Monday. Those of you who have received one of the helmet systems from our training or if you have the Elvex ProGuard helmet system that you purchased and wear, let me know your thoughts back in a quick message. I want to now what you like and dislike about the system. Also any new ideas for head, eye and ear protection you would like to have Elvex consider to produce.

Ya’ll have a great week!

Laura and I are traveling around Massachusetts this week and next. Then we are off to the Norfolk, VA area for training with the US Coast Guard. We are finally going to make it home about Nov. 10^th. It’s been an awesome training tour so far. Thank you for all your participation in our programs.

Good Sawing!

Tools of the Storm

2010-09-28T17:43:00.002-04:00

Tools of the Storm…

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

The past two weeks on the training trail, I have been using an awesome chain saw combination for handling storm clean up tasks. The saw is the Stihl MS230. It is a quite impressive small saw. You can check out all the saw details at http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS230CBEDURO.html . The saw came equipped with the carbide tipped Stihl Duro saw chain. It is a rugged chain and could be a loop that lasts a long, long time for the homeowner and even be a great combination for storm cleanup for government agencies.

Now for the combination I have been using. I mounted an Oregon PowerSharp system on the MS230. This is a top sharpening saw chain that is different to look at, but is really different when you put it to the wood. This stuff is smooth and cuts like crazy. You can find out more at http://www.PowerSharp.com

I ran the saw for five tanks of TruFuel50 and just began to feel the cutting speed dropping. I then clamped on the sharpening device and gave it a 3 second hit of PowerSharp. I was right back to work at full cutting capacity. This product is an unbelievable accessory to any small chain saw that uses extended pitch 3/8 saw chain.

Questions? Contact Tim at TimArd@ForestApps.com and check out the www.ForestApps.com website for chain saw operations and training.

The Stick...

2010-09-11T12:11:00.002-04:00

The SAFETY Stick…

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

When I discuss training for storm cleanup with towns and others operating chain saws; I always discuss the hazards of helping too much. I have heard several stories over the years of swamper’s, spotter’s and various crewmembers that were accidently injured by a chain saw.

One story was after hurricane Opal several years ago. A saw operator turned around and a coworker was standing close behind them. The coworker was cut across the midsection with the chain saw. An unplanned event…

Another story was about a chipper operator working on a roadside with a saw operator. The sawyer became bound in a small tree, attempting to cut it down after a storm had leaned it over. The sawyer recruited the chipper operator to push as he removed the saw from the bind. Why he kept the saw running I will never figure out, but the assisting chipper operator was cut on the leg while helping. An unplanned event…

Still another story, a coworker trying to assist a chain saw operator, clearing a downed tree on a road after a storm, was only trying to speed up the process and was pulling limbs as the sawyer severed them. He pulled, as the limb was being cut, causing a reactive force or either he simply pulled the saw with the limb into the leg of the chain saw operator. An unplanned event…

Reading recently a message from the USFS, they have had incidents where sawyers and swamper’s are working too close together and causing unplanned events.

What’s the answer to this continuously hazardous situation? SPACE! Slow down and give space for reaction time.

Let’s look at some very important math. If a six-foot person is holding a chain saw with only a two-foot guide bar and they, for some reason fall, what is the potential (minimum) reach (radius) of a danger zone for a crewmember or bystander? Person (6’ + 2’ min. arm length addition) + Saw (2’ bar + 1’ power head) = Minimum Danger Zone (11’). You can probably get more scientific than my simple equation, and possibly a lot more imaginative, but you can see the potential. So why do people want to be so close to an operator and a chain saw. They simply don’t understand the MATH.

Let the sawyer make the necessary cuts and when they are ready they will call you in to make the move on the brush and limbs. The sawyer must be in charge- take charge, of the work area. However the assistant, whatever you call them, must understand the math and get back from the work. Some have told me, in a wild fire situation or in a road is closed scenario, they don’t have time to stand back and wait. The situation calls for a lot of hurry up… Folk’s there is nothing that will slow down a hurry up project more than someone getting cut, hurt or killed in the process. An unplanned event… takes away time.

I don’t know if you are aware of this tool and technique. I learned it the first time from a crew harvesting Christmas Trees in North Carolina. It was brought to my attention again a couple years ago from a company in New York that does seismic right of way work all across North America. It is an amazing tool for gaining distance from a sawyer’s chainsaw and it is an amazing tool for moving and windrowing brush and small limbs. The fabulous miracle tool I am speaking of – A stick.

Find yourself a sapling or a limb section, approximately six feet long. You may find a little longer or shorter fit’s you better. This tool can be easily customized. The large end should have a diameter of about two inches so it fits your two handed grip well. The small end should have a fork at the end, about a three-quarter inch diameter- see sketch. You can use this to comfortably stand and rake limbs back or pitch them forward to the side. You will see how amazingly this can move and spread brush with just a little practice.

In summary - The Stick gives you distance from the saw. Can be used to hold brush for the sawyer to cut. It can windrow and spread limb and brush debris. The best thing is – ITS FREE! Unless you just want to for some reason mail a check to the one that turned you on to it….

Remember to always wear PPE! Head, eye, face, ear, gloves, leg protection and boots when working with or around chain saws.

More information for chain saw operators can be found at the Forest Applications Training, Inc. website www.forestapps.com

Taking a Stand

2010-08-31T08:11:00.001-04:00

Taking a Stand

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training Inc.

It is always very hard to do- to stand up for something we believe in. Well, your safety when working with a chain saw depends on a very firm stand. Your stand- and you had better believe it! When you pick up a chain saw you are wielding a very powerful tool. Its rotating, sharp cutting attachment is capable of slicing and dicing just about any material it comes in contact with, especially operator's parts. So when you pick one up- you must take a stand, one you are certain is solid and stable. Take note of the following...

Don't Over Extend- The fatigue process begins immediately when you pick up a chain saw. The saw's weight alone seems to multiply when you hold it in a correct position. When you extend the weight outward or upward, the weight tends to multiply as muscle fatigue begins. It doesn't take long, so make sure your stance is strong and correct from the first chip.

Understand Your Opponent- The reactive forces of Push Back, Pull In and Kick Back are common on all sizes of chain saws. Know these forces and their locations on your saw. Your operator’s manual should be your first source of information regarding these forces and proper maintenance of your chain saw equipment.

Defensive Approach- When you begin to make a cut with a chain saw you must remember the reactive forces and their ability to knock you off your stand. Realize your responsibility is to combat the reactions of these opponents. For example, when the saw pushes back; your stand must maintain balance and control.

Secure Your Stand- Before you depress the throttle and rev the chain saw for a cut, make sure your stance is considering the reactive forces and ready for action. Both feet should be positioned to complete the work. You shouldn't move your position unless the saw chain is at idle or in some situations, the bar and idling chain are on an opposite side of the log from you. Trips and falls can cause cuts and bruises, so limiting movement removes some potential for injury.

Plan Your Stand- Remember that often times the material you are cutting can be under pressure. The severed piece can roll, flip up or down, or even rapidly shoot back toward you when you cut through it. Because of this potential for attack, step back if necessary, make a thorough plan, understanding what could happen before you cut. Proceeding too quickly or without a complete plan can result in an unplanned event- an accident.

Parking in Place- Just as in parking a car or truck, you can apply your saw's chain brake to make sure the chain doesn't roll unless you are in control. When starting the saw and also when moving more than a step or two, lock the chain brake.

Wear Protective Equipment- It is sometimes warm and uncomfortable but it is so important to wear a Hardhat, Safety Glasses, Face Screen, Gloves, Saw Chaps or Pants, and make sure you have good heavy duty Boots. Boots with good traction soles, shank and ankle support should be part of your selection process. Some occupations require boots with chain saw resistance built into them. Waterproof design is also an asset for many tasks. Anyway you want to look at it, PPE is important. Boots are especially important to your stance.

For more information questions can be emailed to info@ForestApps.com Visit www.ForestApps.com for articles and information on topics of chain saw safety, applications and operations.

Strong, Stabile Oak's

2010-08-22T16:52:00.001-04:00

Strong, Stabile Oak's

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training Inc.

I have said it before that it amazes me the connections that have been afforded me across this country all because of chain saws. I have learned so much from the chain saw and the people who operate them.

Over the past few weeks the electronic world of communication, Twitter, has connected me with new friends. I have been a fan of Joe Bonsall and the Oak Ridge Boys since the middle 80's. My ORB contact, Joe Bonsall, began his career with the group in 1973. He is a man who enjoys working with a chain saw around his farm in Tennessee. He is an awesome tenor, a well-read author (his books are available from all the major outlets), and a performer with a greater purpose. When I learned that he uses a saw a good bit on his farm projects, I sent some things to keep Joe and his chainsaw in good shape. We have chatted back and forth on Twitter about his saw and his constant travel schedule on the bus.

Laura and I were able to catch up to the Oaks at their show in Wheeling, WV. We sent a Tweet and were able to meet Joe and had the opportunity to talk with him a while in the afternoon and then to attend the concert that night. In our conversations we covered topics of chainsaws, pets (he loves cats more than Laura does cats and dogs I think) safety in our work and travels on the road, family, the group and how he and others in the Oaks have and are dealing with life. We discussed how the music industry has changed and a lot about other artists they had met and worked with. I started thinking during the conversations, there is a lot of similarity in the music business and the chain saw training business.

You see the Oak Ridge Boys have been performing for years since the 40’s. The current members came together with the latest addition of Joe Bonsall to the group in 1973. The group began as a Gospel Group and received a lot of flack for branching out to country music. They have kept their roots however firmly planted and stabile in their committed message. Like talking safety to people who don’t want to hear it, the Oaks have taken the Gospel portion of their heritage and performances to casinos, clubs, fair’s and places that most Gospel groups would never set foot into. They’ve made it big in country music but they haven’t severed their strong, stabile Oak’s roots of their history.

Hits like Elvira, Thank God for Kids, Bobbie Sue, Trying to Love Two Women have given them the opportunity to go and share their wares at some of the largest music gatherings. They have performed for several of the U.S. Presidents and other country dignitaries too. They are even adding a few current music styles to their performances to keep the ear of the younger generation. Yes, Strong, Stabile Oak Roots and still lifting the branches up and out… The Oak Ridge Boys are the only 35-year plus country group out there that are just as interested in their peers and their ability to prosper to satisfy the music fans. Legendary!

During the show performance I was watching and now understanding, how the group had planned the event to the point of perfection all for their audience. The group, including the musicians, from the moment the lights came up, was striving to get their emotions and message in song through to those watching and listening. They felt the needs and response of the audience with a couple songs and then began to make sure the audience was with them totally. Flawlessly they weaved the roots and grew the evening to a standing ovation. They accomplished their plan.

Those of you who know me are aware there are three things that mean a lot to me, yes, actually other than chainsaws. It is my relationship with God, my family, and music. The Oak's maintain strength in all of those areas well. Thanks Joe and ORB for allowing me to step into your training world.

Twitter @OakRidgeBoys

Chain Saw Training sessions for storm work and clean up should contain the same desire for accomplishment and reaching the attendees. Important is the information of equipment, tools and technique; also the attendees must feel the instructors desire and passion in the subject. Forest Applications Training is dedicated to the example.

For more information in designing a chain saw training program for you or your organization email info@forestapps.com or visit www.forestapps.com

Chap Works...

2010-08-15T21:11:00.001-04:00

Chap Works…

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

I can remember back in the early nineties when I was preparing for a training program in West Virginia. Ed Murriner of WV Forestry, at that time, and I, were discussing the use of PPE in the state among professional operators. The first demonstrations for the Logger Certification Program there, we had huge turnouts, but we had very few show up with hardhats. I asked how many used hardhats on the job. Very few hands went up. When I asked how many used saw chaps, I had even fewer hands raised.

I also remember calling around and asking if there were any records of sales, from three different manufacturer/suppliers of chaps, shipped to WV. The report was less than 150 pairs. I could have carried every pair of chaps sold in WV, to that date, in the back of my S10 Blazer. I would have to say, in my opinion, that most of those were probably used by and belonged to the Forest Service in the state.

One thing the OSHA regulations did shortly after that time in history, for the private sector of businesses, was to enforce and excite the purchase of leg protection. The OSHA requirement (OSHA 1910.266) of chain saw leg protection (chaps) has definitely saved a lot of chain saw cuts to operators.

Saw Chaps are working today for many, many chain saw operators and especially the USFS. The US Forest Service has been religiously requiring and using saw chaps for many years. They were the first organization to really push the issue to their workers and volunteers in fire service.

I recently read the 2010 Gransfors BruksSwedePro catalog, which showed chain saw injury statistics, compiled by the Consumer Products Safety Commission for the year 2008. They are showing 27,170 incidents in 2008, 11,904 of them were to the legs.

The breakdown:

Head 1,786

Upper body. 816

Arms and hands. 11,107

Legs. 11,904

Feet 1,557

PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) is so important for part time and full time operators of chain saws. It’s the cheapest insurance you can buy for chain saw use. It’s not going to eliminate all accidents and incidents but it sure can lessen an injury if one occurs. Remember, an accident is an unplanned event. No one in their right mind plans an accident! I can tell you also from my discussions with operators across the country that experience is a great teacher but it doesn’t always mean a lot should you miss something in the planning process and something unplanned happens.

I was so pleased when I received a copy of this message from the USFS Region 6 Health and Safety Chain Saw Specialist (THE U.S. Chain Saw Boss) Winston Rall.

Good morning all,

We have had a large number of "chap cuts" this year and the good news is that chaps work and we have had no injuries. On the other hand we need to be aware that when PPE is damaged it is the last line of defense from injury and that we need to look at what actions led up to that damage.

It is the busiest time of the year but let's take the time and ask our instructors and crew leaders to conduct tailgate sessions specific to avoiding saw contact with legs before the next project requiring saw work.

Here are some contributing actions to the chap cuts that we have had to cover in those tailgates.

Thanks

Winston Rall

R6 Health & Safety

Here are some things to reduce the number of cut chaps

· TThe chain is stopped and brake set before resting saw on leg.

· Do not cut over extended left leg.

· Be aware of fatigue. Hydration, work rest cycles.

· Working distances. Two arms length between swamper and sawyer.

· Saw weight to body strength.

· Proper bar length for the task

· Proper chap size and fit

Then I received another message with some additional comments from the field… Dan Peterson, Safety and Occupational Health Specialist USDA Forest Service Region 8 & 9

· Using the chain brake when taking more than 2 steps

· Only stepping or moving feet forward with the brake on or saw bar on opposite side or top of tree/log when limbing

· Stance when brushing/limbing so legs are reasonably safe distance from guide bar

· Reviewing kickbacks and how it can happen while limbing/bucking/felling and cause the bar to contact the chaps/legs or feet

I want to say thank you to Mr. Rall and Mr. Peterson for allowing me to reprint this super information. It’s a great testimony to the effectiveness of PPE and it’s also important info for many of you to realize that Saw Chaps can work for you too. In this case, every cut chap represents less pain and suffering for the operator, their coworkers and their families.

If you do not have PPE to use… buy it! The Professionals and Volunteers of the USFS use it and it pays!

For more information on Chain Saw Chaps, Cutting Pants, other PPE and Training visit the Forest Applications Training, Inc. website http://www.forestapps.com and look over the items available through our endorsed manufacturers. Purchasing Links are available through our eStore too…

Chain Saw Injuries

2010-08-10T08:36:00.001-04:00

Listed for 2008

27,170

Head 1,786
Upper body. 816
Arms and hands. 11,107
Legs. 11,904
Feet 1,557

US consumer products safety commission.

Info taken from Gransfors Bruks SwedePro 2010 catalog

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Run Check....

2010-08-09T10:52:00.002-04:00

Run Check

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

How should a saw perform once it is started? What do you look for to make sure it is going to run and do the Job you need it to?

Five areas to check out to make sure the saw is performing as it is designed:

1. Clean Air Filter - you must make sure the chainsaw nose (filter) is breathing properly. If the filter is restricted the airflow for proper adjustment will be low and cause smoking, low power and poor running results.

2. High Speed Levels to Flutter - let the saw warm to running temperature before attempting to determine if high-speed settings are correct. This will take a couple minutes or so after starting to accomplish. Then hold the saw at wide-open throttle for a few seconds. The rpm should come up to a full throttle position and then level off. It sounds kind of like a flutter or a slight blubbering tone. The flutter sound must be in any two cycle high speed run to make sure you have sufficient lubrication and fuel for the engine. A digital tachometer can be used to check if the run is set to design parameters suggested by the manufacturer. A tachometer will only tell you when an engine is in adjustment - it won't however tell you when it's out of adjustment. An engine can show within the design a maximum RPM setting that’s within specification but can have an air leak or other engine problem and can still be running in a lean state. That's where the operator must understand a two-cycle flutter and make sure the saw at top end is fluttering. If not major damage to the engine can and most likely will take place. The high-speed setting is done with the H screw on the carburetor.

3. Chain Stops at Idle - now bring the engine back to idle for the next observation. We want to make sure that the engine is at idle for a couple reasons. The first is safety because you do not want to be walking around with a chainsaw where the chain doesn't stop turning at idle. This also indicates that the engine is idling low enough, if the saw chain stops, to disengage the clutch mechanism and let the low speed fuel circuits in the carburetor take over. When the chain turns at idle you adjust the T or LA screw to raise or lower the RPM to disengage the clutch.

4. Idles In All Positions - now that the chain is stopped and the saw is at idle, the saw should idle in all positions until it runs out of fuel. If the saw is getting too much fuel at idle it will puddle up in the crankcase area and as soon as you roll it over it will flood the port and the engine will stall. The L screw on the carburetor adjusts this scenario. In this case you would close the screw slightly clockwise to reduce the fuel flow.

5. Accelerates Without Hesitation - next the acceleration should be checked. Open the throttle quickly and the RPM should come up without hesitation. If the engine hesitates before quickly rising to wide-open throttle, the L screw on the carburetor should be opened counter-clockwise to allow more fuel flow. It takes fuel to create the power to rotate the engine.

You should remember that you could damage the saw engine quickly if you do not run it properly adjusted. I hear often that supervisors and shops do not want the operator to have access to a screwdriver, nor to adjust the screws. They state that they don't want the saw blown-up from someone who doesn't know how to properly adjust the screws. I agree, but I have said for years that I think I see as many saws and trimmers blown up from lack of adjustment as I have adjustment. If the operator doesn't know when it is out of adjustment they just run it. You do not have to have a screwdriver yourself however to adjust the saw. If you know when it is out of adjustment you can simply take it to someone who does.

Think about - anytime you turn a carburetor screw to the right, clockwise, you take a chance of causing engine damage. You remove fuel and lubrication with a clockwise turn of the screw.

Operators should all be aware of how to check the run of any two-cycle piece of equipment. If they are going to work safely and productively with the machine it must be in tune...

More information on carburetor adjustment can be found in our ForestApps eBook available from www.BarnesandNoble.com and from the eStore at www.ForestApps.com .

Check out the articles on carburetion and fuel under the info/articles link on the homepage. Good Sawing...

Hardwood Whups...

2010-08-04T06:08:00.000-04:00

Spring Poles – Hardwood Whups….
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Down South they often call it SmellWood. They come so close to your nose sometimes you can smell the wood. Too often however, chain saw operators are surprised by them and they cause injury. They can pack a powerful punch. Spring Poles, Whips, Whups, whatever the name you give them they are dangerous!

The following is an excerpt from the Forest Applications eBook. More information on this subject and other chain saw techniques can be found at www.forestapps.com

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Chain Saw Mileage

2010-07-26T14:37:00.001-04:00

Chain Saw Mileage

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

For years I’ve challenge myself to plan out every drop of fuel used in my saw for training programs. You would think that’s kind of ridiculous, but when you walk away from the truck or carry fuel and oil over to the cutting site, it can be a quite a distance sometimes, so I always try to calculate it as closely as possible. I hate to leave a training group just standing around.

When I was involved years ago with saw testing at logging and tree care worksites we always kept up with run time on the saws by tanks of fuel. We knew if an operator went through two gallons of gas in a day he had so many hours of operation on the machine. It was very easy to calculate that way and could easily be recorded by the supervisor or operator.

In later years I have realized there are several things that effect the run time on a piece of equipment. If the engine is adjusted too rich, the fuel consumption is higher for sure. If the operator applies a lot of pressure on the saw chain while cutting it tends to use more fuel. Finally the main denominator – if the saw’s chain is dull you will see your fuel economy and productivity go way down…

Recently I was part of a Community Makeover project that had me running a saw at three or four sites in my area. I enjoy donating time to these projects as it is for a very good cause. I had other volunteers to pull brush to a chipper and clean up so all I had to do was the easy part - sawing. My work portion was to cut down, take off larger limbs and buck the pieces where they could be moved by hand or fit a loader bucket on to a chipper.

I cut for three mornings at the projects (I wimped out close to noon each day because the heat index was over 100 degrees). I cut, limbed and bucked twenty some odd trees over the three mornings. I had three or four that were just less than six inches but the average diameters were in the fourteen-inch range with four in the eighteen to twenty-six inch size. There was a substantial amount of brush clearing around the trees at one of the sites. So, a good bit of sawing was going on with my 20” Stihl MS362 I chose to use.

I nicked one rock the second day with my chain and had to remove some damage but was able to make it through all the sawing with the one Oregon saw chain loop and sharpened seven times over the three mornings. I still have about 1/8” of chain top left before the witness mark. Maintaining the sharp chain was easy with the PFERD Chain Sharp.

I didn’t write this bragging about my abilities but the combined efforts of equipment, accessories and operation to reference my amazement at being able to complete the entire project with a little less than two quarts of TrueFuel50 premixed fuel. That’s great Chain Saw Mileage in anyone’s project logbook. Think about it…. That’s Impressive.

In closing, all the work was accomplished, even in the outrageously hot temps, in full PPE. I am committed to my safety and others. I wore Elvex’s new Tectra helmet system and their safety glasses (with 1.5 bioptic lenses), SwedePro Logger Pants, Tool Vest, Saw Mittens and Boots.

The reason I endorse the mentioned products is the simple reason…. If combined and used properly they achieve awesome results.

To find out more about the items discussed, ask for them at your local saw dealer or visit our website at www.forestapps.com . Good Sawing!

Business That Cares!

2010-07-09T19:20:00.000-04:00

It is such a privileged to work with companies and organizations that care about their people... That is truly the case this week in South Florida.

A company contacted us, JM Family Enterprises, that wanted to hold formal chain saw training for their volunteers for a program they call Associate Disaster Restoration. The purpose is to locate and restore property of associates if they are struck by a hurricane or other natural disaster. First to find out if the associate is OK. Second is to help them to get their home or property livable should they be damaged during the storm.

This company cares about its employees! It's not a small project either... They have about 1000 associates in South Florida and then a few thousand more across the USA. Their main business - they are the largest Toyota distribution and dealer network. Mostly in the southern states but also have finance and support facilities across most of the east and central states.

The group this week was comprised of mostly occasional to little or no chain saw operation experience but they did super felling, limbing and bucking some good sized Australian Pines that were designated to be removed from a lot being turned into a community park. They are dedicated, determined and like literal sponges absorbing every bit of information they could to be ready for future work taking care if their associates should the need arise.

You want to know more about a business that does it right... Look em up. They are in the top 100 of privately owned businesses in America.

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

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Community Makeover

2010-07-09T18:35:00.000-04:00

Local Churches, about 80 of them, have combined volunteers to help people, family and school facilities in a huge community makeover. The organization Engage Atlanta coming from ministries of WestRidge Church.

The outreach is over about a six county area. Projects will range from cutting grass to major home renovations.

Laura and I will be working on various tree trimming and removal needs at about four of the projects.

Sharing your Blessings with others is what CMO is all about.

Good Sawing...

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Fueled by Ethanol

2010-07-01T08:06:00.000-04:00

Fueled by Ethanol
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Today it is getting more and more important to know what your chain saw and trimmer are drinking. Alcohol in excess is bad news for you and your two cycle machines.

Chances are pretty high today that the fuel location you purchased from last year for your two cycle fuel is not the same this year. The difference is that most gas stations today have a minimum of 10% ethanol in their blending at the pump. Ethanol or alcohol in any form can have some ill effects on your chain saw or trimmer.

Alcohol fuel can corrode aluminum and magnesium parts, collect moisture, doesn't mix well with your oil additive, can cause a rapid drop in volatility, and most important it can produce an erratic tuning that could cause major internal engine damage.

If you have one or more of the following issues you may be Fueled by Ethanol.

If you notice your trimmer or chain saw will not start or refuses to start quickly when cold or warm you may have a fuel problem.
If your saw or trimmer idles unevenly you may have a fuel problem.
If the saw or trimmer doesn't accelerate quickly upon trigger response you may have.....
If the trimmer or saw runs away at full throttle you may have ......
If your saw or trimmer takes a long time to return to idle you may have a ......
If your fuel lines are gummy or cracking you ......
If your saw or trimmer engine dies when you let off the throttle trigger you may have ....
If your saw or trimmer billows out smoke and or an obtrusive odor you.....

Yes, you may have a fuel problem!

I received a call from a friend recently complaining that his trimmer would start but wouldn't rev when depressing the throttle. He had been using the trimmer with no problem prior this season. Recently he had purchased a new supply of gas and mixed it as he always has. I suggested he try opening (counter clockwise) the carb adjustment screws slightly and the problem went away. Evidently the new gas purchase had a higher volume of ethanol in it and caused the engine to run slightly leaner. Too lean of a fuel setting to accelerate.
Alcohol in the fuel requires more flow to maintain power needs. In two cycle engines the fuel flow can also relate to lubrication needs. It takes a more open, counter-clockwise adjustment on the screws, to allow enough fuel to run properly. Most carburetors will adjust 10% to 12% but will not accept any higher percentages very well. You should try to a locate a gas supply without ethanol if at all possible.

One of the easiest ways to insure an ethanol free fuel source is to use a bottled fuel like TruSouth's. They produce a premixed 40 to 1 and 50 to 1 fuel (TruFuel or 50Fuel) that is a very convenient and consistent fuel alternative. The TruFuel is in special one quart cans. Your fuel container or mixing is not required. The product is high octane for an even and efficient burn and there is no ethanol. A correct mixture of oil and stabilizers is already mixed in which insures a fresh, properly mixed fuel - good for over two years. Ready for your two cycle machines.

More information on fuel, adjustments and issues can be found under the articles/info link at www.ForestApps.com .

(c) Copyright 2010 Forest Applications Training, Inc.

JT McCorkle

2010-06-15T01:48:00.001-04:00

Our grandson JT McCorkle has arrived June 14 about 10 pm cst . Our 8th grand baby. Congratulations to our daughter Brittany and her husband Bryce on a handsome son. 7 lbs 4 oz. 21" long. All are doing well...

JT- Jayden Taylor McCorkle joins the "Grandclan". Kayla, Kensey, Dalton, Bryson, Tiyana, Canan and Gabriel.

Good Sawing!
Tim Ard

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Number Eight... JT McCorkle

2010-06-13T16:38:00.001-04:00

In the next few hours we are expecting our new grandson to be born. Our daughter Brittany and her husband Bryce are expecting their first, a boy, Jayden Taylor McCorkle.

JT, as I will call him will be number Eight for Laura and I. We are blessed to have such a prolific family...

I wish we could be there for the birth but we will be home soon for the pleasure of getting to know him. More details to come in the next few hours.

Good Sawing!
Tim Ard

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At Idle

2010-06-12T14:25:00.000-04:00

You know it is always good to idle down and take some time to rest. This is especially true when operating chainsaws. When you start to tire it's time to sit down and take a break. Fatigue is understood to be one of the major causes of accidents and injuries with equipment operators.

A chainsaw should idle sometimes too. Like when you let off the throttle, the chainsaw should stop rotating the chain. You see, when the chain is turning you stand a higher chance of cutting something. You don't want it to be a part of your body.

Chainsaws have a centrifugal clutch system that is a major part of it's operation. When the throttle is released, the clutch disengages and the chain is released from its drive system. The clutch has weighted shoes and springs that are activated by the rotation of the engines crankshaft. The weights are centrifugally thrown outward at above idle rpm to engage the sprocket drive drum to turn the chain loop on the guide bar. When the throttle is released the chain should stop rotating.

If the saw chain doesn't stop turning it greatly increases your chances of the reactive forces of push, pull or kick-back coming into play unexpectedly.

If the chain turns at idle it may be caused by one or more of the following:

1. The saw's idle screw (T or LA) is set too high.
2. The centrifugal clutch springs are weak or broken.
3. The roller bearing on the crankshaft is seized or dirt bound.

Some of the common problems caused by a clutch that doesn't work properly:

1. The saw is hard to start because of the resistance of the chain.
2. The engine dies when the throttle is released.
3. The chain brake band is worn or over heated.
4. The operator is exposed to a higher risk of injury.
5. Saw control is greatly decreased for accurate cutting.

So when you take a break your chainsaw should also. Never, never operate a chainsaw that doesn't rest when you do... When you let the engine idle, the saw chain should too.

Remember - review your operator's manual regularly and put on your PPE before starting your chainsaw work.

Good Sawing!
Tim Ard

More information on chainsaw operation and safety can be found at Tim's website www.ForestApps.com

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Old Stand

2010-06-11T02:01:00.000-04:00

I recall visiting two preserved forests in the States over the years that I just couldn't understand why things were let to naturally die away. One of these forested areas is in the San Francisco, CA area and another in Spruce Knob, WV. Whether it is Redwood or large native Spruce the situation is the same. Not knowing if it was originally a forest or another man had planted or changed it's lifestyle a hundred years ago, it's evident anyway that they have overgrown themselves and are so thick and depressed that they will most likely not be around for our children. Which is exactly why I think the parks were established to begin with... When we fence off, so to speak, an area and herd lots of people through - it does change things in a forest.

Now number three- today Laura and I visited a beautiful overlook area here in Molokai, Hawaii where there were two paths built to the overlook. The trees were so dense they were dying off at what looked to be a higher rate than most of the similar area forests. Now as the trees naturally die, because there is not enough food on the table for all of them, they are creating hazard situations along the trails.

I think it is ashamed these areas are set aside to preserve them and then no management is allowed in, whether planned by man or natural. Most of the parks I discuss my thoughts with say the budgets just are not there, nor the manpower, to properly maintain them. Volunteers, who are usually a little more on the "don't cut this" side of maintenance are the only ones cleaning up the trails and park facilities. That thought process is usually to maintain less work for some or because of some ecological beliefs of others. Thanks to both of the groups though for at least doing something. A medium point of education and understanding would prosper the results better I think.

Soren Eriksson used to tell me that a forest should be maintained so people can safely walk and even run through the trees. I think he is right. The preserved forests in some park areas and woodlots are so thick they cannot be enjoyed outside of a beaten paved trail or tent pad.

If you were to go in and change the density or build more access trails, the trees are so close together they would fall over in the next little breeze. The root systems have been so protected for so long they are not strong enough to support thinning or storms now. It appears to me they are just slowly dying out. There is no room for new growth. The worst that's evident is the overhead hazards, the fallen and ready to fall stressed and dying trees.

Maybe in the near future we will see more groups and or land owners start to form new recreation areas with management plans from the seed up...

Good Sawing!
Tim Ard

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Maui, Hawaii Complete

2010-06-08T23:05:00.001-04:00

Completed the Maui programs today. The cutting site was a little limited here for great instruction but it worked and we had an awesome couple of classes.

Because of State Furlough's we had to make the classes a little too large, but we wanted to accommodate as many workers as possible. The trees were very small, so time wasn't a factor in completing the course material, but we were kind of limited in situation discussions. The planning sessions were super and the saw control was well discussed.

I hoped to be able to get the planning process' under way here in preparation for any storm work they may have to do in the future. This is the first formal saw training they have experienced and they learned a lot in taking and acting on information at the tree.

The conditions on the islands, with the tropical tree species and the irregular terrain, make for some super tough and dangerous cutting conditions these occasional operators have to experience.

They are super dedicated people and very hard workers at the Maui DOT. We had a great time here with them, but it's off to Molokai, Hawaii for another class next week.

Good Sawing!
Tim Ard

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Rot and Fire Damage

2010-06-04T20:59:00.000-04:00

Rot and Fire Damaged
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

I had a great question come in this week regarding the difference between working on a green healthy tree and one that many sawyers have to deal with -- dead, rotted or fire damaged trees. Some may be standing, others may be hung in another tree or just lying there to clean up after falling to the ground. This is an awesome question, but a tough one to write about and illustrate in words. During hands on training I can go over many situations or at least address them with a similar tree in front of the class. Without having you in front of a tree to show and discuss it's hard to justly describe and write about a technique and even harder for one to see with the minds eye. I will attempt to cover some of the more explainable things however...

Let me say this first to reemphasize my ever important stand on the use of the hinge in felling and bucking. You must understand how a hinge should be considered or established in these discussed operations to see their effectiveness and safety. Sounds complicated? It is, unless you can first define it - The hinge is a predetermined section of wood, that connects the stump to the falling trunk stem or a log or limb section to another. Predetermined means you have a clear thought in your mind as to how much hinge you want to leave attaching the two parts. You just don't simply cut, you plan it.

The hinge dimension (rule of thumb) is approximately 10% of the diameter in width and 80% of the diameter in length. The diameter is a measured cross section of the tree or wood/log section. This calculation gives you a very predictable place to start in establishing a successful controlling hinge.

Now to our issue's of burned or rotted trees.

The planning process remains the same as with every tree to cut- establish the five steps - 1. hazards, 2. leans, 3. escape, 4. hinge dimensions and 5. how to cut, selecting tools and kerfs (back to front or bore cut).

I wish I could explain everything regarding what to look for in hazards and leans assessment but it is probably best left for a class or video and still you would not completely cover all the possibilities. Listing out all the possibilities may overwhelm some people. I still find sawyers, including myself, that forget important things sometimes to watch and plan for....

To identify just a few of these obstacle and hazard considerations --
Broken hanging limbs and tops (widow makers).
Rotted or severely burned tops or large limbs that may break loose during movement.
Cracks or channels that have occurred in the trunk from stress or rot.
Noticed splits,cracks or wear areas on the trunk or limbs.
Vines that attach to limbs or other adjacent tree tops.
Root systems that may be burned out causing unstable lean potential.
Obstacles, power lines, cables, structures, adjacent trees.
Ground hazards and terrain issues.
Odd shapes or missing fiber from rot or burn in the desired notch and hinge area.
Chimney effect burns. Forest Fire damage from the inside out on some burned trees.
Fiber that is hard and dry from burn exposure.
Fiber that is powdery, rotted or just weak from rot.
Be aware that rot or fire damage can cause a trunk or limb to be unstable several feet up. This can result in a tree folding back toward an operator when it begins to fall or strikes another obstacle.
Face notch's should be open for travel until the trunk is virtually parallel to the ground and should have no bypass or Dutchman in the apex of the notch. These things can cause a shaking action to the trunk that can snap out tops or unstable limbs.

Regarding initial techniques used to cut the tree or log; after your plan is established, burned or rotted fiber is usually found in the tree in a couple scenarios. On burned or rotted surfaces of the tree the outside wood needed for a hinge may be soft and offer little or no usable hinge material. Other trees may be hollow, limited the placement depth of the hinge into the tree. With either of these scenarios, the sawyer must look at the available wood or the lack of and make sure there is enough for a sufficient hinge to be established. A hinge may be sectioned or open in the middle, similar to hinges of a tall door however and still offer steering control and safety. On larger trees especially, two hinges can be formed, one at each side of the notch. If the tree is hollow and the notch extends back into the hollow, the two hinges located on the sides will still be successful to direct and support a tree as long as there is not too much side lean. Hollow trees, if you can establish a working hinge in the good fiber it only means you have less to cut.

Trees with rot in the hinge area, rotted or unstable fiber, can not be felled from the ground with complete confidence and control. Without hinge control, safety is a questionable issue. If a tree has lean in a favorable direction you may be able to notch and back or bore cut to fall the tree safely. If the plan information has obstacles or hazard situations that can affect the fall, you must decide to leave the tree. It will have to be taken down from the top by bucket, crane or a climber that can suspend from another adjacent tree or structure. If the tree base is unstable it's not safe to support a climber either. Leaving a tree in the woods you can't safely plan to cut means you have to mark off the area - at least the height of the tree or as is usually suggested, two tree heights so no one enters the area. In a residential area mark the area well, especially any walkways, until the tree can be removed. Don't leave a situation for another unsuspecting person or animal to enter the zone and be surprised by the tree falling on them.

The commonly used Definition of a Hazardous Tree is one with a Target. If the tree shows any sign of instability and there's a chance of people or property damage, it's a Hazard Tree! Stabilize it or remove it as soon as possible.

Practice your saw cuts and become proficient in making notches and hinges on practice blocks or stumps before ever attempting to work in rot or burned situations. Your chainsaw must be sharp and in perfect running order. Read your owners manual and be familiar with its content. Wear your PPE and if you are not comfortable with the plan you are able to devise... Call someone who is.

Good Sawing!

The ForestApps eBook, "The Complete Guide to Chain Saw Safety and Directional Felling" is available from our website and downloadable from www.BarnesandNoble.com . We have recently completed filming some very good video footage that we hope to have out in the next month or so regarding a few storm damage situations. So stay in touch with our website or by ChainPoint.

If you have questions or feel other explanations are necessary regarding this article there are training programs available from Forest Applications Training to better your understanding. Write to Tim Ard info@ForestApps.com or visit our website www.ForestApps.com .

(c) Copyright 2010 Forest Applications Training, Inc.

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Storm Training

2010-06-03T19:04:00.001-04:00

Awesome to hear something like this...

A large distributor of Toyota automobiles has contacted us to look into training some of their volunteer employees to help out customers and dealers with hurricane preparedness and clean-up in the Gulf area.

That's the sign of a great company when with all the negative press received over the past few months about their products- they are progressively looking to the future and the well-being of their personal and business family.

Good Sawing!
Tim Ard

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Life and Wood Chips

2010-05-30T17:21:00.000-04:00

Life and wood chips are two things that have become close to my heart as I go down this forest road that God has assigned for me to travel. We will not know till we take our last breath here among the trees if we have taken the right path but after we will, if we know the One who designed the forest and the road. Life is always a wooded challenge! Wood Chips have made mine a pleasure!

I guess you could say I have life today because of three healers of Jewish decent, a Baptist missionary and Trees... Dr. Seth Rosen, Dr. Bruce Goldsweig, and above all the Great physician Jesus Christ. The Baptist missionary? That would be my wonderful loving wife, Laura.

Two years ago this time, May 30th, 2008, I was in surgery to remove everything Dr. Rosen could find of signs of colon rectal cancer from my body. The team of doctors had determined from tests that I was in stage four of the disease and prospects were not great but the surgery would tell more about my future prognosis.

I had been battling symptoms for quite some time and basically ignoring them. They were not seeming to get any better. In April of 2008 my wife Laura had finally convinced me to go in for a colonoscopy. My first one, at age fifty-two. Laura made my appointment with Dr. Flood in Villa Rica, Ga. His PC, Dr. Anni called to discuss the findings. We were in Connecticut working and she suggested we return quickly to see Dr. Flood and his referral to Dr. Rosen. Following more tests they diagnosed the problem and the tests showed the cancer. I went to doctor Rosen to discuss the first step, surgery to remove a baseball size tumor. The end of May, Memorial Day Weekend, I had the surgery.

Dr. Rosen removed the large tumor and twenty-one lymph nodes around and below it in the several hour long surgery. He also found two small spots on my liver and an area on one of my lungs, but didn't think they were cancerous. He put me all back together and then fed me ice chips for the next thirteen days. Nice guy, huh. Tim Ard not eating for that long a period is a miracle in itself. They did finally start some bottled food intravenously after the first eight or so days stay. I had lost some weight before the surgery, down from 198 lbs to about 186 lbs, but during my hospital stay I went down to 173 lbs. (Funny note, Dr. Rosen and his son are avid fans of Ask This Old House and had seen my episode on felling trees recently. Small world....)

I recuperated at home the next few weeks with the best care a human could have from my loving wife Laura, family and friends. They took great care of me as I lived in a recliner for several weeks.

Dr. Rosen then connected me with Dr. Goldsweig at the Georgia Cancer Specialists clinic at Cobb Hospital. We found out he also had an office and chemotherapy facility not but two miles from our house. He was there two days a week.

July 7th, 2008 I began a regiment of chemotherapy called Folfox 5. It was given intravenously. The first dose combination I took on every other Monday for about five hours then they attached a pump that gave me another chemo slow dosed until Wednesday and then a shot of a bone marrow stimulator when they removed the pump. Thursday's I died to the world! It took everything I could do to just stand up and you had to often, as the next two days, you spent very close to a restroom. The stuff also makes you think you are swallowing broken glass chips if you forget and drink anything cool and especially cold. It also will cause tingling to a level of almost pain if you pick up anything cold. Its amazing how these chemicals do this. You soon learn not to aggravate the situation though. Everything you put in your mouth must be room temperature or warmer. This regiment continued every other week until mid-October.

Still today, two years later, I have little feeling in my finger tips and the ball's of my feet and toes. It does change from day to day. Its a reminder of the work the chemotherapy did but is very bearable compared to the alternative.

In August 2008 we had to get back to some training to keep a roof over us so we started traveling and training every other week I was off the chemo. Let me say this also, Husqvarna, Cary Shepherd and David Breeden, kept FAT going with Laura orchestrating the days even through my time away. Thanks so much to them for all they did to keep everything going! There was a lot of interest in training programs at the time and if it wasn't for them, many classes could not have been completed.

You can't imagine all the friends and co-workers I have had the pleasure to know over the past thirty-six years in this business. Yes, It's been a long and fantastic time in this industry of Outdoor Power Equipment. You know, most all of it has been because of those great acquaintances that I was able to make it through the industry forest, as well as survive the cancer. Thoughts and the prayers of these special people have kept me going.

Dave Zerfoss, at that time the president of Husqvarna USA, called weekly. Dave has been a great friend and influence in my life. His integrity and charisma has given me direction and desire to achieve more and more.

I didn't speak to them every time others called to check on me, Laura took most calls, but so many business associates like Dave Z. kept in constant contact. Just to name a few Mike Bolin, Jeff Cathcart, David Perkins, Bill Fyfe, Robert Albritton, Kathy Burns, Juli from HI LTAP, Cary Shepherd, David Breeden, and many, many others. I know I am missing some important friends and recollections so, Thank you all! These people were brought to my side mostly by Wood Chip's over the years.

I am so blessed when I recall all the good times and relationships that have been afforded me in Life from family, Church, cutting wood and making Wood Chips during training classes all over the country. You know, since the cancer, we haven't slowed much. The groups are smaller but the days are as many as ever. Over 2500 participants, in mostly hands on training, since that Memorial Day Weekend surgery 2008.

God has always had a strong influence and hold on my Life. He has allowed me through many experiences to survive and always prosper in my endeavors. I know one day He will take me home, and I'm ready when He is, but it seems Wood Chip's are the reason I'm still around. Good Sawing Everyone!

Written over the Memorial Day holiday weekend, Maui, Hawaii 2010. A training project for Hawaii LTAP. Tim Ard is president of Forest Applications Training, Inc. Http://www.ForestApps.com

Good Sawing!
Tim Ard

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Before Wood Chips

2010-05-30T13:50:00.001-04:00

I was reading an article this week from the OPEI and it was talking about a company Ariens just purchased. It has set a new lawnmower land speed record of like 86 mph.

A few years before I started working with chainsaw training, actually my first full time job repairing lawnmowers and chainsaws, I worked for a Snapper Dealership in Hiram, Ga. Ben and Benny Strickland were the owners (1976).

Bob Vincent from AMED, the Snapper distributor, had a Snapper that had been adapted to ride around on its back wheels and roller doing wheel stands. Bob used it to draw a crowd along the highway and parking lots of open houses. Can you imagine how that worked on a busy Saturday? Bob was a real salesman! He later arranged for me to take a job working the parts and warehouse at AMED. Anyway, the story has more...

Before I left Strickland's, Benny Strickand and I built one to do the same. Then I came up with a way to make it go fast. I reversed the chain drive in the gearbox, using all original Snapper parts and that thing would almost fly. We had our local law enforcement contact his friend and we had it clocked by the GA State Patrol Radar at 52 mph.

We thought since we had this thing we would put out a challenge to other shops. We soon got a taker on the race proposition. I believe his name was Mike from the shop at Stovall and Co. Now Mike had used some older Snapper gearing combinations that offered the ability to not only run fast but get there quickly. He met us for a drag race at Southeastern Dragway in Dallas GA. I won, mike blew a tire. He was OK, just scratched up a bit but he was done with racing he said and it gave me the win. Mike definitely had a better gear ratio setup and since he was retiring from the sport early, he openly divulged his secrets. I now had the fastest machine worldwide, I thought...

Benny and Bob Vincent had told the Snapper factory in McDonough, GA about our machine. A few months later Snapper challenged us to a race and wanted to film it. Their slogan at that time was Snapper Fast. We set up the grudge match back at Southeastern Dragway. Benny had us all decked out in Red shirts with Strickland's Snapper on them. We were not only fast we were cool!

Well, Snapper did show up with the machine and five of their engineers. They had a new 28" HiVac with a 13hp? Briggs engine. They backed that thing off the trailer and was doing burnouts with it, literally. A true Funny Mower bracket lawnmower. This thing was sharp! I got beat bad that nght at the Dragway. They turned 62 MPH. Blew the grass right off our mower. Snapper left with a great commercial video that they later decided not to use. I was told at that time that I had the first fast Snapper riding mower that they knew of - but it wasn't the fastest any longer.

Well, that's faster than this old guy wants to cut grass now! But it was a fun time in this old Wood Chips past!

Good Sawing!
Tim Ard

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Maui, Hawaii

2010-05-29T22:38:00.001-04:00

Taking in the beautiful beach scenery from our room in Maui. We have the Memorial Day weekend off and what a place to enjoy it. The area is a little more busy with people than Hilo but it is still a peaceful place. Absolutely Amazing!

It also brings back memories of the first trip Laura and I made to Maui to work on the Kaha' Olawe project in February 2002. You can see the island from our room here in Maui. I flew over to the island everyday to train saw operators removing trees so unexploded bombs and shells could be removed from the island which will effectually become a park for Hawaii. It was tough work for the crews! They had to deal with rough terrain, high winds and a lot of dull saw chains. The island was used as a bombing range and practice field for the military until about 1988 when it was turned over to Hawaii for the restoration project. We were privileged to be part of such a project. The island was used to train many a pilot and soldier for protection of our country. Now the land is being restored for our free nation to enjoy.

Next week we will be training State of Hawaii Department of Transportation workers on Maui to cover saw operations for storm preparedness.

Have a Blessed and Safe Memorial Day with your friends and family. Remember those who served and are serving to make it all possible.

Good Sawing!
Tim Ard

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Ironwood and the hinge...

2010-05-26T01:27:00.000-04:00

Today's training had the first group on the Kona side of the big island up in the hills and cutting Ironwood trees hanging over an old road bed that will be used for material storage for repaving the highway running near.

The wind howls to the tune of about 45 mph over this old road and it doesn't stop. The area trees are blown at this rate most of the year so the saw operators are somewhat used to the added excitement.

The group did very well with the trees and the hinge is definitely your friend as you steer these leaners to the ground. The escape routes are limited as the road sides are almost vertical banks and it requires working from the bad, leaning side, of the tree in most plans.

I had to keep highlighting the fact of the stance and position you must take when cutting to establish the hinge. Most of the trees were less than 14" with side leans of 4' or more so having a correct hinge, properly placed, to be an important prerequisite to safety and control. You have to stay in a position to see the face notch.

Everything you do, once the face notch is complete, must line up parallel to the notch. If you do not put yourself where you can see this you will do one of two things. One- leave too much hinge wood. Two- cut too much off. A loss of control can be experienced with either of those scenarios but the second with heavy leans is definitely the most undesired. For those that are not familiar- the hinge should be 10% of the diameter in width and 80% of the diameter in length. A ten inch tree would have hinge of one inch wide (a max) by eight inches long (a min). The hinge is your friend...

Good sawing!
Tim Ard

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Ironwood

2010-05-24T22:12:00.001-04:00

Today I began the first training session on the Kona side of the Big Island. The wind is much higher here, about 30 to 50 mph gusts across the top of the ridge road. We held the classroom in Waimea at about 2500 ft and then went up on the ridge above, about 3500 ft to cut the trees on an old road bed they plan to use for material storage for the upcoming repaving project.

The trees are Hawaiian Ironwood. A tree that looks like pine with needles but is a very dense hardwood. The cutting site is going to be interesting with these trees growing off the road banks and heavy lean, not to mention again the tops whipping around at high wind gusts.

This however is a common working condition for these crews. The majority of regular tree work is done from bucket truck but we are concentrating from the ground for the initial training. Focusing the planning from a storm perspective we are working from the ground and discussing bucket truck planning and techniques along the way.

Gonna be great! Good Sawing! Tim Ard

Top Five...

2010-05-22T16:39:00.000-04:00

Top Five...
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

In training workshops over the years there are many of the same issues and thought processes that come up in questions and statements as I go through the presentations. I decided to write about the top five, not in a ranked order, but to let others, including to remind myself, of some of the common conceptions and misconceptions about chainsaw operations.

I was told years ago that experience is the best teacher! I was also reminded that there are two types of experiences- good ones and bad ones. So with these top five listed, maybe you don't have to go through experiencing some of the bad ones...

Hinges
Holding wood or hinge as we call it, is the wood fiber that is left attaching the stump to the falling stem when cutting a tree. A hinge can be used in felling, but also in bucking (cutting up a fallen tree) or in limb removal situations. A hinge gives us reaction time and control in many sawing scenarios. So often saw operators think the hinge should not be left and they should stay with the tree until all fiber is cut and the tree or limb reaches the ground. This thought and action puts the operator in jeopardy, as many of the incidents, fatalities and injuries happen when saw operators stay with the tree, cut the hinge off and stand beside it too long as it falls. In addition to the thought- the hinge can't work if the notch is not cut properly or has a bypassed notch corner.

Escape Routes
Escape routes, or planned retreat paths are thought to be the act of cleaning around the tree so you can get away. The get away part is correct, but too many saw operators forget to plan their steps before beginning the felling or working cuts. You should have a clear plan in your head of what you are going to do; if the tree goes right and if the tree were to go wrong. It's not a process of cleaning brush only, it is the position you plan to be in as soon as the tree or limb starts to move. Struck by injuries and fatalities are often because saw operators or onlookers are not away from the stump of the tree when objects are falling. Plan your retreat path thoroughly, clean it - the path and around the tree and most of all use it.

Sighting
Few saw operators know how to use the felling sights on the chainsaw. A line ninety degrees (perpendicular) to the guide bar. This sight can be used to place the tree, given your side lean calculation and the strength of the hinge, where you want it. You must stand behind the sight line, much as you would with a rifle site, to aim the tree. Aim the tree toward the target/lay area before you start the face notch cut. Really, you do this aiming of the sight during the cutting of the face notch. If you don't, you will most likely be sending the tree or limb in the wrong direction. The sighting however, doesn't take away the importance of planning the forward to back lean either. Remember, the sighting and hinge techniques work on the ground but they also work just as well in the tree or from a bucket work position.

The Saw
I very seldom find saw chain that is ready to cut when the group provides a saw for me. In looking over the whole group, if they do not have a new chain on the saw they bring to class, their chain is usually slightly damaged or just plain dull. I hear something to the effect that someone else used the saw yesterday.... Well, whatever, the important thing is that you get it into a state of sharp before you begin your work with it. Dull saw chain means more work - pushing and often pulling on a saw to get the task accomplished. You fatigue, your productivity is reduced and most of all safety sometimes compromised. Make sure to check your saw chain before heading to work.

Second in this section - the run of the saw is not understood. You should know how to check your saw to make sure it will work with you to complete your task. If the saw runs away, won't idle without the chain turning and constantly dies every time you move it or depress the throttle- it's time to get your saw adjusted or repaired.

I know sometimes the group is using my saw or they may bring a spare saw or one that someone else uses most of the time; they just are unfamiliar with it's switches and operations. However, I wonder if that is the usual case on the work site too. I see too many times that a saw operator doesn't know how to approach starting and running the saw they have. They put the switches or choke in the wrong position and cause their saw not to start and complain about the equipment because of it. Air or drop starts also complicate the situation and compromise safety.

Personal Protective Equipment
I never use it! We don't have it! I've never been hurt and I've been cutting for 15 years! These are all common statements I hear in class. From supervisors or organizations a common one is added - the rules don't apply to us. They are for other.....?

Important facts are - I find most saw operators don't know the rules and they really do not understand why we need these important safety items to reduce the chances of injury should an unplanned event occur (accident).

Summary....
I am in no way complaining about these above areas of concern. Going over and over with saw operators every day about these very things and more is how I make a living. I am simply reassuring you and myself, as to why training is so, so important. Not just on the front side but also repeating and repeating the issues that plague a chain saw operation. Training and retraining have to happen.

Storms, hurricanes, and common tree maintenance happen! Every day, somewhere, someone finds a chainsaw to be the tool of choice to handle a task - cutting some type of wood material.

If you or your crew is going to use equipment, it is so important to train with it. Just think what would happen if our police or military didn't train with their firearm tools. If the fire department didn't constantly go over the operation of and check the readiness of their equipment. Is a chain saw operator less professional or skilled?

Read your equipment operators manual and know what the tool is designed to do and what safety issues or PPE items are recommended for use with its operation.

Good sawing!

The author is president of Forest Applications Training, Inc. and has a been working with chain saw training and applications for over 30 years. For more information on Tim Ard and his training programs visit www.ForestApps.com .
(c) copyright 2010 Forest Applications Training, Inc.

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Next week...

2010-05-21T22:56:00.000-04:00

Drove up today to Waimea, HI to find the meeting room and the cutting site for next weeks training workshops. Our hotel is at sea level, the classroom at 2500ft and the cutting site is at almost 3500ft. The trees are Hawaiian Pine along the road right of way. You can see forever up there. The trees seem to be getting a lot of damage and I am sure causing some road problems along the highway. They do need thinning a little.

The tough duty is going to be the 50 mph trade winds blowing the trees. It's going to be interesting ... Hopefully the trades are a little less active on Monday.

Good sawing,
Tim Ard

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Location:Waimea, HI

Small Saw and Storm Work

2010-05-19T22:07:00.001-04:00

I have come to a conclusion today that it is much harder to keep from getting stuck in logs and limbs under pressures and twist with a small narrow saw bar and chain.

Small saws, with narrow chain, really make it easier to get a saw stuck when cutting and limbing. The wider kerf cuts of .325" pitch and .375" (3/8") pitch saw chain seem to stay out of binds much better.

Is it the width of the kerf? Relationally the pressure that is applied when the kerf closes under force? Is the wider kerf affording more reaction time? Those shouldn't be the cause or relief of the situation.

I know something played a roll today. I am accustomed to a larger, more powerful saw and wider chain kerf. Using a small saw today I don't think I could make a cut without binding.

Maybe I have just gotten spoiled to power.... The weight of the saw is more and that has a negative effect on the operator and long term operation, but the power I think is what keeps the chain spinning and reduces the pinches.

What do you think?

It could be my planning process... I was off somewhere!

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Networking

2010-05-18T00:51:00.001-04:00

One thing networking with Facebook has done for me is to reconnect with some folks that have made my life and career what it is today.

This morning I received a message from someone whom I haven't heard from in years. My auto shop teacher from high school, "Doc" Lamb. Doc was a great instructor and mentor. I wanted to have a career in auto repair, especially racing, and Doc kept me interested and focused.

One summer he asked if I would like to work on the bus maintenance program. He used to have all the county school buses, that needed cleanup, repaint and tune-ups, brought over to the shop at the high school and he would handle the work. He'd have selected students come in and work for a summer job. I was one of those.

The summer of 1974 I worked on the buses and we finished a little early. Doc had been contacted by several businesses wanting to find summer help and future employees from his students at the school. One of those companies was Henningsgard Equipment in Marietta, GA. Doc suggested me for the job to finish out the summer there. That was my first time working with small engines other than a couple lawnmowers and a chain saws at home with my Dad. I fell into the work, enjoyed it and soon took another job working on mowers and saws in Hiram, GA after I graduated in 1975.

So you could say that Doc Lamb was the one that got me started in all this ChainSaw Stuff! Thanks Doc for doing that - it has been a good road to travel!

You know, teachers and instructors do a lot to mold and develop futures... few too many times they are thanked and recognized for that.

Good Sawing!

Japanese Gardens

2010-05-17T02:23:00.001-04:00

One of the most beautiful and restful places we visited over the weekend was the Japanese Garden on Banyon Drive in Hilo, Hawaii. This garden was built in or before the 1930's and has been maintained to a T. The sculptured lawns and ponds are all framed by an assortment of huge trees of several species. Absolutely gorgeous!

If you are blessed with the opportunity to vista Hilo take a day and visit this park and garden.

Good sawing!

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Location:Hilo Hawaii

How Should Your Saw Run?

2010-05-14T15:24:00.001-04:00

Run Check

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

How should a saw perform once it is started? What do you look for to make sure it is going to run and do the Job you need it to?

Five areas to check out to make sure the saw is performing as it is designed:

1. Clean Air Filter - you must make sure the chainsaw nose (filter) is breathing properly. If the filter is restricted the airflow for proper adjustment will be low and cause smoking, low power and poor running results.

3. Chain Stops at Idle - now bring the engine back to idle for the next observation. We want to make sure that the engine is at idle for a couple reasons. The first is safety because you do not want to be walking around with a chainsaw where the chain doesn't stop turning at idle. This also indicates that the engine is idling low enough, if the saw chain stops, to disengage the clutch mechanism and let the low speed fuel circuits in the carburetor take over. When the chain turns at idle you adjust the T or LA screw to raise or lower the RPM to disengage the clutch.

4. Idles In All Positions - now that the chain is stopped and the saw is at idle, the saw should idle in all positions until it runs out of fuel. If the saw is getting too much fuel at idle it will puddle up in the crankcase area and as soon as you roll it over it will flood the port and the engine will stall. The L screw on the carburetor adjusts this scenario. In this case you would close the screw slightly clockwise to reduce the fuel flow.

5. Accelerates Without Hesitation - next the acceleration should be checked. Open the throttle quickly and the RPM should come up without hesitation. If the engine hesitates before quickly rising to wide-open throttle, the L screw on the carburetor should be opened counter-clockwise to allow more fuel flow. It takes fuel to create the power to rotate the engine.

Think about - anytime you turn a carburetor screw to the right, clockwise, you take a chance of causing engine damage. You remove fuel and lubrication with a clockwise turn of the screw.

Operators should all be aware of how to check the run of any two-cycle piece of equipment. If they are going to work safely and productively with the machine it must be in tune...

More information on carburetor adjustment can be found in our ForestApps eBook available from www.BarnesandNoble.com and from the eStore at www.ForestApps.com.

Check out the articles on carburetion and fuel under the info/articles link on the homepage. Good Sawing...

AutoTune

2010-05-11T12:22:00.001-04:00

Auto Tune….

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Manufacturers have been talking about it for a while but it might be just in time to help curb some (not all) of the fuel issues with ethanol base gasoline. Husqvarna has introduced a new version of the 576xp saw with a new Auto Tune carburetor. It’s not really a fuel injection system but it is a smart carburetor that’s a very close twin. No manual adjustments, the carburetor makes automatic adjustments of the fuel and air ration going into the engine with an electronic control system. It also compensates for air filter obstruction to help minimize rich runs and loss of power.

This Auto Tune system should help some with the issues around ethanol fuel supplies. Ethanol added fuels have a larger molecule to transport and also attracts moisture (water) at the molecule so it in effect requires a larger hole (carburetor jetting) to offer enough fuel to maintain power and RPM control of your saw. Some carburetors today do not have sufficient adjustment capabilities to handle the larger ethanol fuel structure.

Take for example if you have a saw adjusted to spec, at less say 13,000 rpm. The engine is running great and you have plenty of lubrication taking place because you have a proper oil to gas mix ratio adjusting in. It’s all good….

Now you buy fresh gas at a local station and mix in your oil to requirements. The new fuel you purchased however has 10% or more ethanol in its formulation. If you do not change the carburetor adjustments of air and fuel entering your engine you have most likely leaned out the run of the saw because of the added fuel flow requirement of the ethanol, which you are not getting, and also your lubrication is minimized because of this fuel restriction. Leaning the lubrication and over speeding the design. Not good….

The Auto Tune carburetor will now step in to do its job. It allows more fuel in to properly mix with the air through the filter and voila – proper running engine. The only thing to consider now with the ethanol fuel is the water accumulation and the deteriorating effects on your saws rubber and internal parts. Which these effects are somewhat minimal to the seizure costs.

I hope we see many more of these techno changes in the near future and even some upgrade carburetors available for existing equipment – that would be nice. This would correct a great deal of the run problems showing up in the field. Until then – seek out a source for TruFuel or a gas without ethanol to do your mixing… or I recon you could just buy a new Husqvarna 576xp.

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/products/chainsaws/576-xp-w-autotune/

eVideo Shoot

2010-05-09T23:46:00.001-04:00

Last Saturday at the Rugged Quarter in Trussville, AL, Rob Lagerstrom, Bill Fyfe and I worked on the completion of the RDT eVideo and the Storm Damage eVideo.

We had previously shot most of the RDT video. We only had to add an intro and then a few defining shots and shoot the Run Check outline and discuss a bit about fuel. It went quickly and I think its up to Rob on the edit table to have it ready to go.

We then went out to the field to shoot a large broken Hickory Tree that had fallen, broken over the motorcycle trail below the entrance road. This thing is about 25ft to the break point and then bent over back to the ground with lots of weight. We took info on it and I thought I had a plan. It was working until one of the hinges in the top held too well. I had it in the wrong position and too thick. Not a safety issue, just had to go to plan B. But the effect for the eVideo was over for that scenario. You will like this one...

We then hung up a tree and planned the takedown. Looked at SpringPole's and a few limbing cuts. All the rest went well.

I think you are going to be impressed with these eVideos when they are ready.

Thanks Rob and Bill for a great day and future AWESOME eVideo training tool.

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Barnes and Noble...

2010-05-03T18:52:00.001-04:00

On this weeks ChainPoint I mistakenly left off a link to Barnes and Noble eBooks. If you don’t have a copy of the Forest Applications eBook now is the time to order it while on sale at B&N. The version doesn’t have the video clips but has everything else... You can go to our website and order the eVideo Intro DVD and have the video information in High Definition DVD to go with the eBook.

http://search.barnesandnoble.com/The-Complete-Guide-to-Chain-Saw-Safety-and-Directional-Felling/Tim-Ard/e/9780615319230/?itm=1&USRI=tim+ard?tabname=custreview

One of the best gifts you can give you Mom for Mother’s Day is your chain saw safety.... Order your copies today.

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard
Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Blandford, MA...

2010-05-02T15:41:00.001-04:00

The first of the week we have a three day class with Batstate Roads. The third day will be an awesome day of storm damage. Mark at Blandford has set up some storm situations for us to work on. It looks tough... we will see.

Good Sawing,

Tim

MIIA

2010-04-30T17:44:00.001-04:00

This has been a great week! This was our second time of training with the MIIA organization in Massachusetts. Started last year with them and it is exciting to work with them. They are a risk management and worker's comp provider for town DPW workers and Police and Fire employees. I can tell you they care about the workers...

The organizer and contact for our work is Lin Chabra. She does a super job getting everything organized with the townships. We have presented to 125 town representatives across the state from the Cape to the NY border. A great group of saw operators and Lin and MIIA's office and field staff did such a great job making all of them feel appreciated.

We will be back with them again in the Fall - looking forward to it for sure...

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Chain Tension...

2010-04-22T20:11:00.001-04:00

How To Tension Your Chain

by Mike Kelly Field Services Manager Oregon Cutting Systems

Never tension your chain right after cutting. Chain tensioned while hot can cool and shrink,

causing tension to be much too tight. REMEMBER- LET YOUR CHAIN COOL FIRST.

when tensioning your chain always wear protective gloves

Turn engine off. Let chain cool

Loosen the bar-mounting nuts on the side of your saw.

Pull the bar nose up, and keep it up as you adjust the tension.

Adjust tension accordingly:

Solid nose bar- Turn your saw's tension-adjustment screw until the bottoms of the lowest tie strap

and cutters come up and just touch the bottom of the bar rail.

Sprocket nose bar- Tension must be tighter than on a solid nose bar. Turn your saw's tension-

adjustment screw until the bottoms of the lowest tie straps and cutters come up and contact the

bottom of the bar rails, at this point add a quarter of a turn to your tension adjustment screw.

With either type bar, hold the nose up and tighten your saw's rear bar-mounting nut first, then

tighten the front nut.

You should be able to pull the chain by hand along tie top of the bar several times, from the

engine to the bar's tip, Chain should feel snug but still pul1 freely.

If you have a sprocket-nose bar you should now perform a snap test. Grasp the chain along the bottom of the bar, pull down, and let go. Chain should snap back to its original position, solidly contacting the bottom of the bar.

Check tension often during operation, especially during the first half-hour. If chain loosens: stop,

let chain cool, and readjust tension.

Improperly adjusted chain can result in premature bar wear and chain wear.

REMEMBER: MORE CHAIN AND BAR PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY INCORRECT CHAIN TENSION THAN BY ANY OTHER SINGLE FACTOR.

Oregon Cutting Systems, Division of Blount, Inc. 4909 SE International Way

PO Box 22127, Portland, OR 97222-2127

Return to Forest Applications

Susanville, California Workshop

2010-04-21T21:19:00.000-04:00

We are holding another Train the Trainer Workshop, this time in Susanville, CA July 19-23, 2010. The TTT workshops are not only for instructors but for anyone who wants to be able to explain what they learn and pass it to others.

Information can be found on the ForestApps website at

http://www.forestapps.com/training/California2010.html

If you know of anyone who would like a training experience in chain saw unequaled anywhere... tell them to register for Susanville.

Bucking Storm Debris...

2010-04-20T20:36:00.001-04:00

We had a small group today and we did a little work with some storm situations. It is so impressive when plans are made following some guidelines. I don't know if there is a great way, or best way, to organize your thoughts before making a cut but we had some super results from this planning format:

1. Hazards

2. Roll or Twist - side pressure

3. Up and Down pressures

4. Back and Forward pressures

5. Make the cut

If you take the time to go through these steps you will ultimately reduce the time you are hung in the limb or log and surprised much less by quick unexpected happenings.

One advantage of this five step plan is to quickly agree with the rest of the crew as to what to do. Without a defined planning process you are probably going to spend more time discussing what could happen rather than taking the information, confirming the plan and agree upon actions to get the job completed safely and efficiently.

Most important - once you have a plan for the cut, choose a technique from the toolbox that works. The notch and hinge used for felling works in bucking scenarios too. You don't always need a big, wide notch because there may not be enough movement required for a large opening but just sliding the bar across the compression side makes a notch of sufficient operation to reduce twists and gain control.

The new Storm Debris eVideo is going to be an awesome training / review tool for outlining this process and open a lot of eyes to how great the system works.

Good Sawing,

Tim

Two-Cycle TroubleShooting

2010-04-19T20:18:00.002-04:00

One training class that's fun to do and very important to chain saw users is the two-cycle troubleshooting workshop. The class is a tear down session that investigates the four areas of two stroke theory and design.

Air - Spark - Compression - Fuel

These areas are are discussed in detail as the saw power heads are torn down and reassembled. The course is not designed for the mechanic bit rather an operator. The concept is that an operator can Reduce Down Time and keep a saw running longer if they understand the workings of the engine.

One subject that is very important today is the Fuel section. Participants take apart carburetors and understand the effects of fuel (like Ethanol Fuels) on the carburetor body and how important adjustments are to the life of the engine.

To find out more information you can look under programs at http://www.forestapps.com or contact info@forestapps.com .

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

A Notch in Time...

2010-04-12T20:21:00.005-04:00

A Notch in Time…

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

In the past couple months I have led training workshops and demonstrations in several areas of the country and met several people who have been operating a saw for years.

Preparing for the eVideo I watched a passel of videos online that show felling, bucking, limbing and other chain saw techniques that cover and display a wide range of skill and applications. Hundreds of face notches, bore cuts, miss-matched cuts of various configurations are visible on these websites. I have heard statements of how techniques used originated and how they have been “the way I’ve always cut”, they say.

I have been following chain saw training in the USA very closely since 1983. Even before that, in the late 70’s, I remember the name Soren Eriksson in and on chain saw related materials from Scandinavia. Jonsered and Husqvarna had Soren in pictures, films and poster materials back in the early 1970’s. Soren made some of the first training visits to the USA in the late 70’s working on projects for Weyerhaeuser and Westvaco wood products companies. Jonsered distributor, Tilton Equipment organized many workshops with Soren and Dan Tilton was one of the first to begin spreading Soren’s Swedish Logging Techniques throughout our country.

The first time I met Soren Eriksson was in 1983 at a Stihl function but it was in or about 1986 when I finally was afforded the opportunity to assist in putting on a demonstration in South Georgia where Soren was brought in to work with a group of loggers for the Stihl Distributor Meier and White Equipment. At that time I was the Shop Manager for MWE and was responsible for technical training. I held some basic chainsaw safety meetings for local dealers and power companies but it wasn’t until the logger workshop that my eyes and ears were open to the possibilities and huge need of training for the chainsaw operator. Logging was Soren’s focus venue but I knew the techniques were something that could change all chainsaw operators everywhere.

I researched it heavily and it was Soren Eriksson who had pioneered the techniques of “Open Face” and “Bore-Cut” into the USA but the real accomplishments of his techniques; Soren Eriksson brought thought, safety, planning processes and professionalism into USA chainsaw operations. Soren’s major promotion arm in his early days in the states was the American Forest Resources Association (at that time called the American Pulpwood Association) and Dave Zerfoss of Stihl, later US President of

Husqvarna. Soren’s training really took off when he and one of Scott Paper Company’s foresters organized the first Game of Logging.

When I went to work nationally for Stihl was when I began to travel with Soren and organize his training and the GOL events. I wrote the above to more or less illustrate this in the timeline…. There was not any use or discussions of big notches and bore-cuts before Soren Eriksson brought them to the USA through his training programs. When I became involved in promoting Soren Eriksson and his training with Stihl and later Husqvarna, I can assure you not many knew anything of what he was doing and fought against the training and techniques in both the eastern and western states.

So from now on, when you make that face notch you have always made, bore-cut to establish a hinge you have always used, after putting together a five step felling plan you’ve always used-- you can say a quick thank you to Soren Eriksson – a logger and training instructor for bringing them to you. Yes, those logging techniques work well for Tree Care, Logging, Government Crews, Disaster Volunteers and me and you! Every recognizable training organization in the USA teaches with Soren’s techniques and training formats. They just make them their own… they think!

Thank you Soren for being persistent in training, techniques and design to make our chainsaw work safer and more productive.

Good Sawing!

Tough Brakes...

2010-04-09T20:29:00.003-04:00

Tough Brakes….

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Innovation takes time to be tried, tested and perfected. New ideas taken from concept to commonplace often take decades.

The chain brake has been readily available on chain saws since the early 1980’s. It was designed and available as an accessory to certain chain saws a

few years prior. The chain brake has proven its worth in saw safety and has become standard equipment on most chain saws for close to thirty years. In my opinion it is one of the most significant developments in safety of the chain saw operator to ever be offered to date.

Today a couple manufactures are competing to make the chain brake system even more user friendly and better fit the applications of current chainsaw operators. Retaining operator productivity and offering new designs for improved brake operations has challenged manufacturers.

In my training I emphasize awareness of the reactive forces of the cha

in saw and discuss the chain brake working to stop the chain rotation giving the operator greater reaction time. I also discuss the important technique of using the brake system as a parking brake. When you take a hand off the saw the chain brake can go on to remove some chance of the spinning chain coming in contact with the operator. Applying the brake before removing a hand and then release the brake to begin work removes a lot of incident potential.

Two manufacturers, I am aware of, have added new innovations in chain brake designs to a couple saw models. Stihl(R) and Husqvarna(R) are reviving the Battle of

the Brakes.

I requested a Husqvarna(R) saw with a TrioBrake(TM) for evaluation to compare to the Stihl(R) C-Q Brake. I was hoping to compare side-by-side but to date they haven’t sent the saw. So I am going to complete the comparison, evaluating the TrioBrake(TM) saw at a later date. I have included my findings on the Stihl(R) unit. So enjoy!

In the following review I have written the evaluation of the machine basically right out of the box. I reviewed a fresh unit with the open mind of an operator and/or a chainsaw mechanic… Here are my findings.

Stihl(R) MS 362 C-Q

First Impressions: CES Rating* – 5

Unpacked the saw from the box, filled it with bar oil and 50Fuel (Your Stihl(R) dealer will do the set up for you). The engine started (from dry) in 4 pulls with compression release on. Compression seems good on the unit right out of the box. I’ve had problems starting some new saws in the past using the compression release before the engine is broken in. Saws are usually a little hard to start until the compression gets seated. The MS 362 starter system is smooth with or without the compression release engaged and the recoil rope didn’t attempt to snatch my fingers (some light weight, high compression saws will jerk at your fingers when you pull the rope, this one did not at all).

The chain oiler primed quickly and was ready for use in less than a minute with sufficient oil all around the bar surface.

I warmed the saw up and ran it up to top rpm. High speed had a good flutter. It seems like there may be a governor system in the saw but the tachometer didn’t show any change in reading so, I assume the compensator designed air box is managing the situation and not electronics. The high speed no load is said to be 14000 rpm in the owner manual. I left the adjustments a little rich on the high screw for a couple tanks of fuel, just to get everything seated and broken in a bit. I have since turned it up to just under the 14k (maximum) since I have several tanks through it now. Carburetor adjustment is easily set and is very consistent on this engine. The fuel economy (gas mileage) is much better at the proper setting and runs out well with little smoke from the exhaust. Good deal!

The air filter element is a two-stage design and is fed with pre-cleaned air pulled (or pushed up) from the flywheel area creating a three-stage air cleaning system. The two cleanable elements however are a little tricky to reinstall, you have to take your time and get them seated correctly. I will practice a bit on it and see if it’s me or design. Right now it’s easy to distort the element shape and you have to really be particular that the filter seals to its mount. Sawdust gets around the top edge of the pre-filter element easily if not. The total (three stage) filter system seems to stop all particles however with the primary element the last stop before the carburetor throat. Tapping out the secondary pre-filter occasionally throughout the workday keeps the primary element virtually clean as new.

Checking the fasteners right out of the box, I found the screws slightly loose on polymer parts but all others were tight on the crankcase, carburetor area and starter housings. After running it for several tanks all the screws are still snug. Top covers on saws are notorious for screws that vibrate loose. The MS 362 has twist locking style fasteners (similar to Dzus®) on the top cover that hold it down securely and are ready for 200mph plus. This type of fastener has been used in racing applications in the auto and motorcycle industries for years, glad to see them used here. They are quick and they work!

The new chain brake system on this MS 362 is much improved. The first Q-C units I observed and ran in the field with the two-position chain brake activation, I had difficulties performing carburetor adjustments, chain sharpening and chain tensioning because of the rear brake activation lever. It was a two-person task, as someone had to work the two brake controls. It seemed in the earlier versions, the brake levers were somehow tied together and it was hard to work independently with these areas, performing adjustments. On the new version the system now works like a usual brake lever in front with the added rear release lever activating the brake if your hand is removed from the rear handle. When your hand is removed from the rear handle the brake is applied. If the front brake handle/guard is engaged forward, the brake is applied. It engages in two ways to tighten the brake band to the clutch drum during work applications. Stopping the rotating saw chain quickly.

The brake system also engages with a push or kick of substantial force. It is designed to be inertia activated. I found it to take a fairly strong inertia force to trigger the front brake. I couldn’t get it to trigger in a fairly strong kick on the tip. I had to drop the saw bar hard into a wedge (without it running) to trigger it. So the inertia feature is working but shouldn’t trigger without reason and if the saw operator actually lost control and the saw left their hands, the release of the grip on the rear handle would immediately activate the brake because of the rear activation feature. In all - the new system works super for reactive force situations as well as loss of control scenarios such as slips and falls. That is a great feature!

Fit and finish of the MS 362 C-Q is very precise and the see through fuel tank is a great feature. You can observe fuel volume quickly during operations without opening the tank cap. The fuel cap and the oil cap take some added attention to make sure you start the twist locking action in the right place. If you don’t start the twist in the right position, when you flip over the twist lock, the cap will leak around the seal. With a little practice it’s not really a problem, unless you do not start it right.

I haven’t put this much run time on a StihlÒ saw in several years. I found it to be a pleasurable experience. Especially since the AV system is now spring mounted- it’s firm but has very little vibration felt at the handles. The two-position chain brake activation is the reason I wanted to run the saw and I am glad I did. It’s a new system that has great potential of reducing loss of control lacerations and reactive force incidents of chain saw operation.

I have used the MS 362 C-Q in several training classes now and feel very confident it can offer added safety to operators who for some reason have a habit of removing a hand from the rear handle to grab or move an object or brush. It’s a great innovation in chainsaw safety advancement. I endorse this innovative unit and highly recommend it for your chain saw applications.

For more info on the MS 362 go to http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS362CQ.html

* To define the ChainPoint Endorsement System (CES Rating) use the following 1 through 5 rating.

1- 1 Not impressed at all– back to the design bench

2- 2 Could have limited applications

3- 3 Suggest closer evaluation

4- 4 Recommend it

5- 5 Endorse - Highly Recommend it

Easter ChainPoint

2010-04-03T20:17:00.004-04:00

Hi Everyone,

It has been a very busy three weeks. It seems getting ready for the Rugged Quarter Training, the great week of training following the preparation and then a quick training trip to SC filled the past two to three weeks exceptionally. It was a great time!
The latest ChainPoint eNews...

I have written a few comments in follow-up to the recent wedge article. It’s found below.

The Rugged Quarter workshop produced a winner. Adam Fyfe took the high score position and kept the Husqvarna 575xp (my last prize saw- thanks Husqvarna for supplying over the years).

We are tentatively planning two other Trainer Workshops for later this year. One is being discussed for California and the other in the Memphis area. Stay tuned to ChainPoint for more information on these. The first one at RQ was a huge success! Thank you Bill and Juli for making it possible and producing the winner too. I also want to thank several of the ChainPoint manufacturers for supplying some other samples to the trainers; Gransfors/Woolpower, PFERD, TrueFuel50, Oregon Cutting Systems, and Elvex. (http://www.forestapps.com/chainpoint/chainpointhome.html ) Thank You!

The eVideo Introduction DVD’s are in the house and we are preparing to mail out the first 150 free ones in the next week. They look great! Rob Lagerstrom at Streamline Studio did a super job! If you didn’t get in line for the first 150 free grades' via TruFuel wanting to introduce you – you can order your copy for $19.99 from the eStore at http://www.forestapps.com .

I pray that you and yours have a super and safe Easter weekend and realize the Grac

e that was given to each of us on this weekend in Jerusalem hundreds of years ago. Know the Gift is Yours!

Good Sawing,
Tim Ard
Forest Applications Training, Inc.

O 770.222.2511

www.forestapps.com

A Wedge Up...
By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Comments and questions came in from readers of my recent wedging article. One was regarding compression of the fibers and lift potential at the wedge site. During the RQ workshop I

lifted two trees to illustrate heavy wedging techniques. One of them a white oak with more than12 feet of back lean and the other an 18” with 5 feet back lean on a soft pine. Both were successful and no fiber compression was encountered.

The first of the trees, a 10” white oak, I placed three wedges to lift it just over 10 feet.

The pine, I did not get a picture - but 14 witnesses can attribute to the lift of the weight with double stacks at 90 degrees and there was no measurable fiber compression at the wedge sites.

So many times the notch, hinge, top obstructions cause the plan to be unsuccessful with wedging but with a little understanding and practice wedges are amazing. One of many tools in the box....

I mentioned several times at the RQ that ropes and wedges both do the same work- they lift or support. The real work is done and safety comes from the hinge. With these two trees you would have had to been there to realize the strength of the hinge. The Hinge=Friend!

Good sawing!

March 2010 Rugged Quarter Workshop

2010-03-27T21:47:00.002-04:00

March 22-26, 2010

Monday the 22nd at the chainsaw safety workshop we had a total of 18 in attendance and then 14 completed the rest of the week’s Train the Trainer workshop at the RQ near Trussville, AL.

The class consisted of attendees from Tree Care, Fire Services, Forestry Equipment, Land Management, Training Organizations and the Department of Homeland Defense. All of whom wanted to absorb as much as they could from the material, presentations and from the other attendees during the five days. They did just that!

A very attentive group and very talented also….

The winner of the three days of Competitive Response was Adam Fyfe. He was consistent in all the hands-on events and led the way. All the way to a grand prize of a donated Husqvarna 575xp. Congratulations Adam!

Special thanks to Oregon®, PFERD, TruSouth Oil (50Fuel), Gransfors Bruks, Elvex and Husqvarna for the products and prizes.

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Angled Back Cut

2010-03-15T22:19:00.001-04:00

From: John R.

Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 9:21 AM
To: Info@forestapps.com
Subject: Angled back cut

Tim, I live in an area of the country where a good deal of the populace like to employ the sloping back cut when felling trees. Getting them out of the habit is a little like trying to explain why "mulch volcanoes" around landscape plantings is not a good idea. People hear it, but don't "buy" it. Any additional comments from you would be appreciated. Thanks.

John R.

Hi John,

Sloping back cuts from a safety standpoint probably do not have an issue. You can present the following line items as somewhat limitations.

1. If the tree begins to move, as the sloping back cut is at a high level above the notch apex, the fiber pulls apart splitting vertically instead of breaking from the back of the hinge to the front at an even rate. So if lifting with a wedge or pulling with a rope this separation can possibly cause “barber-chair” in the trunk.

2. Wedging the angled back cut pushes against fiber and separates vertically where as a level back cut lifts and breaks the fiber from back of the hinge to the front.

3. As the tree’s weight transfers forward with the back cut high and angled above the notch cut, the entire weight of the tree can collapse the fiber. Support is lost for side weight or lean. The tree can twist because of the crushing fiber. When the back cut is level, and at the level of the face notch, there is only movement the width of the saw kerf behind the hinge. Limits some of the chance of twist.

4. The back cut level to the notch apex, instead of angled down, can better insure the fiber planned in the hinge width. If the back cut is high and angled and the fiber at an angle in the hinge area, there is a good chance that the hinge is completely cut when you have anticipated and planned a given hinge width.

Some quick thoughts…. Better explained with a hands on class to demonstrate.

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Guide Bar Question

2010-03-13T07:07:00.001-05:00

Have you had occasion to use the WoodsmanPro Bar Rail Closure from Woodland International, Inc?

I have had one for a few years but the jury is still out on it's effectiveness/need. Granted, I probably used it less than half a dozen times. Any thoughts?

John R.

FRSP

Hi John,

I have not used the Woodsman bar rail closer but I have used similar tools over the years.

They are nice to quickly straighten up pinches in the field. You can open the rail of a pinched area and then use the tool to even things. You can also close an entire rail to better match the drive links gauge as the bar starts to wear. It is a patch however...

When the chain runs in the rail it moves from side to side (rocks left to right). This causes a "fishtail" looking wear inside the lower end of the bar rail that only a regrind or replacement will correct. The rail closers just push the top of the rails closer together so it's kind of a patch not repair.

Hopefully that answers your question... Thanks for sending it. Always good to hear from you. It is a good tool to keep in your box for those occasional uses.

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Phone: 770.222.2511

http://www.forestapps.com

We have an eStore for items discussed in our programs... eStore

Two Specs….

2010-03-01T12:44:00.001-05:00

Hi Everyone!

A new month and Spring is in the air! The clean-up and yard work begins as soon as weather warms. I can’t wait!

The ChainPoint ProLink for March is posted – check it out http://www.forestapps.com/chainpoint/chainpointhome.html

The March Special is posted at the eStore also…. Time to try a case of 50Fuel.

There is one slot open in the Train the Trainer Workshop March 22-26^th . However the Monday 22^nd Demo Workshop is wide open. If you have a Church group, business, friends or just anyone who may want more chain saw knowledge that would like to visit Trussville for the 22^nd workshop have them register. Cost is $50 and includes a T-Shirt and Lunch. Groups may contact me for discounted rates. Register online at our website….

The Trussville/Leeds, AL area has the Bass Pro Mega Store and Barber’s Motorcycle and Motorsports Museum. Let alone the beauty of the Rugged Quarter. Hotel’s, restaurant’s are plentiful and reasonable.

The first day workshop is important to the training element for the participants in the rest of the week activities. Come on out, participate and enjoy!

Take a minute and invite your friends to go to our website and subscribe to ChainPoint so they can be connected to this elite group! Thank You!

Please read the article below on Two Specs. It’s an important one as we begin the Spring work around the job and home.

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Phone: 770.222.2511

http://www.forestapps.com

We have an eStore for items discussed in our programs... eStore

Two Specs

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Or maybe the title should be bi-focal? When you are operating a chain saw you should not hesitate to have your eyes covered with safety glasses. It is even a good idea to add a face screen when you are working debris on the ground. ¹

For sure your eyes are a valuable commodity that you do not want to be without. You wouldn’t run a chain saw in total darkness would you? Why would you plan to do that very thing by not considering safety glasses anytime there is potential for eye injury? One unexpected, unplanned event (accident) and you possibly won’t run the saw in daylight again. It will definitely slow down saw operations for all time.

When operating a saw, trimmer, clearing saw or just performing maintenance or sharpening -safety glasses must be worn. The potential for eye injury is present at all times when undertaking these tasks. I just started a small engine in the yard one day and a piece of rust from the exhaust muffler blew upwards into my eye. It had enough force to pierce the edge of my eye and the doctor had to remove it with what seemed to be a magnetic drill bit. Yes, if it sounds gross to you-- I can tell you it’s not a pretty sight when it’s headed toward your eyeball either. I never knew how closely related your eye is to your stomach as nausea set in quickly.

Often in training classes I hear comments of, “I can’t see clearly through safety glasses, they seem distorted.” The minute I start to work, “they fog up.” “I have to wear prescription glasses and I can’t afford $350 safety lenses and side shields.” These are all valid reasons safety glasses are often left on the truck seats and shop tables but it doesn’t answer the need for them to reduce the chances of eye injury. Today there are technologies that make the excuses disappear…

Distortion

Safety glasses today from companies such as Elvex, who have improved the manufacturer of hard polycarbonate coated lenses, are completely distortion free affordable lenses. These safety lenses can be clear, indoor/outdoor, yellow, grey and dark tints that all block dangerous UV’s and protect your eyes from HFO’s (harmful flying objects).

Fogging

Safety glasses now have coated lenses that have scratch and fog resistance. There are also cleaners with anti-fog properties that can help prevent collection of facial oils and moisture that immediately make fogging a problem. On the web one product called C-Clear is getting high reviews.

Bi-focal Optics

Since the time I turned forty-two (thirteen plus years ago now) I have been wearing two sets of eyes. I tried to make it through with just regular safety glasses but no way to see anything up close. Contact lenses are just not for me either, especially with all the dust I am around. So, I tried a couple safety glasses with bi-focal inserts and also the plastic film inserts on the market for about a year. They just didn’t offer a solution, too much distortion and I always seemed to get a headache. I decided to spring for a pair of prescription safety glasses and sprung I did to the tune of about $240. I really used them too long, about three regular eyeglass prescription upgrades and then last year I paid $380 for a new pair.

In January I received a pair of Elvex RX 400’s in 2.0 magnification bi-optics. The soft ear pieces sealed great under the ear muffs and the lenses are so clear. I wore them for less than a day to find the bi-focal optics worked great whether walking in the woods, sawing or sharpening. The cost a fraction too… Safety glasses with bi-optics are available with magnifiers ranging from 1.0 to 3.0 to accommodate most reading and work environments.

So, the excuses are reduced to a minimum by the aforementioned paragraphs. The need for safety glasses is indisputable when tackling power equipment operations. You can now find products available that will work for you. Try it please-- do so for more than a couple days, give them an honest try before abandoning them and remember for many occupations it’s the law. Your Two Specs are worth the time, effort and money expended to protect and keep them!

If you have any questions about the items mentioned in this article please send them to info@forestapps.com. Links can be found to explore on our website and eStore at www.forestapps.com.

¹ In the workplace these items are part of the PPE requirements of a chain saw operator under OSHA 1910.266. Make sure you are in compliance for two reasons- your safety and it is the law.

Elvex RX- 400 Bi-Focal

Good Sawing!

Saw Chain Rocks!

2010-02-25T00:08:00.001-05:00

Saw Chain Rocks!

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training

Imagine with me for just a moment a situation at your work site that happens easily and way too often to chainsaw operators. You cut through a limb or log near the ground, maybe on a rock or a paved area, but you miss calculate and you pass through the wood and cut right into the material below- Dull chain right? Powerfully Dull!

It happened to me during a training demonstration in north Georgia a few months back. I put together a great plan to take down a tree that was most likely on an old home site. The tree had a boxwood type woody plant growing around it. I began to clean around the tree so I could begin the notch cut. In the first cuts in the brush, a rock jumped up and hit my saw chain. Have you ever seen rocks jump? It’s happened to me a couple times over the past thirty years of saw operation (lie- a hundred times).

No the rock didn't jump up but it did show up in the wrong place and I dulled terribly ever cutter point on one side of the chain. Immediately I realized the situation wasn't conducive to completing the tree fall and I had to stop and sharpen before moving on. By the way, as a trained professional I told the group exactly what the problem was as I pulled out my sharpening tools from my work vest. "Someone must have hit something with my chain the other day!" That's always a good way to substantiate the pause in action and quickly apply blame. I hoped no one saw the sparks from the rock I had just carved into. Oh, that's comical isn't it? Maybe now but not then, and how often that happens as we clean up debris with a saw.

I recently experienced something right before my eyes and in my own hands that during my career others have attempted but didn't quite make it come together. That connection being a rock and a saw chain that's positive and productive to chain saw applications. Here are the findings that rocked me.

I took a small chainsaw and cut through a six inch log in about four and half seconds. Then I took the saw and ran the tip into a concrete composite walkway and tried to cut. The time slowed to over thirty seconds in the next cut (it still cut better than many chainsaws in the field but it was rocked). I then clamped a device over the end of the bar, started the saw, ran it up to full speed and pushed the end of the device against the log for about 5 seconds. Turning off the saw, I removed the clamshell like device, restarted the saw and returned to cutting four to five second rounds again. Yeauh, that's what I said! I sharpened the chain in 5 seconds.

The new chain is an extended pitch 3/8 chain much like most of you have on your smaller cc chain saws. The cutter is completely different though, it sharpens from the top of the cutter instead of underneath the top. It looks like a short, short cutter but you have to understand that the tooth length is vertical and not horizontal. Most chains and onboard sharpening systems that I have tried over the years were or seemed to be slower cutting and most of all very aggressive when you consider reactive forces. The use of the tip in plunge cut techniques using the nose of the bar was virtually impossible. This chain meets ANSI tests and is designed to run on a multitude of chain saws on the market.

This product will be sold as an accessory kit to fit your smaller chain saw and will be under $100 (actually way below $100). The kit includes a guide bar, saw chain and a stone sharpening device that goes into the bar tip clamshell device. When the chain life is complete, about a dozen sharpening’s, you only replace or purchase a new chain and it will come with a new sharpening stone. You simply reuse the clamshell device for many sharpening’s, like forever. In this process I think you will also be amazed at the life increase in your guide bar when you always run sharp chain.

This chain cuts fast, smooth and bore cuts are very doable. I was overwhelmingly impressed!

You can take this system to the woods, around the town, your backyard or even up a tree and you are always a few seconds away from a sharp-- properly sharpened saw.

By the way, if your spouse or significant other has a strong desire for diamonds for their birthday, anniversary or upcoming special occasion gift- you can have your stone and hit it too, so to speak. Invest in diamonds and sharpening power at your local Oregon® Saw Chain and Accessory Retailer.

Find out more about this great new accessory for your chain saw (maybe Pole Saw?) and diamonds at www.PowerSharp.com .

The Oregon^® PowerSharp^®! It Rocks!

Reduced Down Time

2010-02-22T23:17:00.001-05:00

RDT Aware...

By Tim Ard, Forest Applications Training, Inc.

I learned years ago- it's not the cost of a part or repair of a piece of equipment that's expensive. It's the Downtime! If the equipment's not ready when you need to be- it's unprofitable and often times unsafe.

Adopt Forest Applications Training's RDT program and in less than 10 minutes Reduce Down Time for your chain saw.

RDT- is a simple plan for staying ahead of downtime and costly repairs that any operator can master.

RDT starts with understanding these five areas of the chainsaw:

· Safety Features

· Air Filter

· Visual overview

· Starter

· Saw chain, guide bar and Sprocket

We cover more detail on some of these areas with weekly and shop routines but the initial or main purpose of this exercise is for the operator to perform a quick check of discovery before beginning or ending the work day. If mastered, this RDT system will alert you to problems and or wear trends on your equipment that will improve your sawing experience and Reduce Your Down Time dollars.

Safety Features

Three features should always be present and working.

Throttle interlock- this feature is incorporated so your hand must be in proper position, the driver’s seat so to speak, before the throttle can be depressed and the engine speed increased.

Chain catch - this is a soft metal or polymer tab or roller designed to shorten the chain and slow its rotation should it derail from the guide bar. This will most likely occur if you operate a chain saw long enough; brush or loose chain causes the saw chain to jump the guide bar rail.

Chain Brake – this is a well known safety feature of today's chain saw. The brake can be activated by the front hand guard assembly or some by inertia created by a reactive force of the saw guide bar and chain rotation. This brake can be used when starting and maneuvering with the saw, limiting chances of operator contact with a spinning saw chain. Anytime a hand is taken off the saw the brake can and should be applied. .

Air Filter

I call it the chain saw nose. If it gets plugged, just as our nose when congested, it starves the engine for air and in return power. A huge volume of air is ingested by a chain saw when turning high revolutions. The filter handles every bit of this volume through its pores. The filter maintenance is the largest difference between the saw filter and us. Even with all the increase in volume and congestion it can't blow its own nose. You've got to clean it.

Visual overview

Seeing is believing- when it comes to chain saw operations. Look over nuts, screws, bolts, fasteners, cracks, leaks, etc that can be a problem in your future work. Wear is progressive on most properly maintained equipment. Let's make note of these areas to identify it and do something about it.

Starter

Ever tried to push start a chain saw? Simply will not work will it. So, we must keep a check on the starter system to make sure it’s operative. Look at the rope for length, frays or tears that can reduce its chance of working when you get to the work site. Also make sure the spring recoils the rope completely and seats the grip against the starter housing so it doesn't flop around. Nothing is worse than driving or walking way out to the site and then have the rope break on the first pull.

Saw chain, guide bar and Sprocket

The working side of the chain saw. This is the business end and the side that requires most of our attention. Make sure you understand when a chain is not performing as it should. Learn the five areas of the saw tooth and what each part does for your safety and production. Look for any cracks, bends and wear on the saw chain loop.

The guide bar rails should be cleaned out and make sure all debris is removed from the rail groove. Left too long, the chips and oil become hard and clog the oil from making its way around the guide bar for sufficient chain lubrication. The bar rails and chain operate at sometimes 450 degrees or more so it’s like baking cookies too long. Burnt!

Bar rails become flattened from the chain riding and hammering on the surface. You can remove this with a flat file or even better a guide bar dresser. You can often extend guide bar life by flipping the guide bar over to even top and bottom rail wear each time you clean and dress the bar.

There are two sprockets on most saws today. One on the crankshaft/drive drum and one on the guide bar tip. Both of these are high wear areas. Check them often for wear and cracks etc. Check your manufacture's manuals for replacement suggestions. Wear on the drive sprocket is excessive at .020" on many units. Bar tips should not be sharp pointed as this indicates wear that requires replacement.

Another good practice to maximize bar, chain and sprocket life is to rotate a group of saw chains on the saws guide bar and sprocket. If you run one chain until worn out, then add a new chain to the worn guide bar and sprocket, you often miss-match the gears of the chain loop drives, the bar and crank drive sprockets. If you rotate three chain loops through the combination the wear is equaled out somewhat. This can be a long term cost savings that few take advantage of.

The Forest Applications RDT system is outlined in detail on our eBook. Download your copy now at the www.forestapps.com eStore for only $9.99 while on special. This is a special download version. Does not include video clips or print ability. This version is strictly for computer/eBook reading in Adobe PDF version.

If you have questions on the RDT system or other Forest Applications Training programs. Send them to info@forestapps.com or call our office PH 770.222.2511

Good Sawing!

Training On Site…

2010-02-14T21:12:00.001-05:00

We have planned, or should I say Laura has planned very well the past three weeks. We have managed to miss the cold weather excitement and have had great classes in Florida and in California.

We travel a lot but its the way we meet the training needs of the chain saw operator. We bring the training to you… To your situations and terrain. We are blessed to have the equipment to set up class just about anywhere.

Ready for Class…

We will see you there!

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Tall Knowledge

2010-01-30T21:11:00.001-05:00

Tall Knowledge

By Tim Ard Forest Applications Training, Inc.

I was told a story recently of a young man assisting another to take down a tree. He was somewhere in the work area as the tree was beginning to be felled. About the time the tree was to be released he looked and saw a vehicle coming toward the target or lay area and ran out to stop the vehicle on the road. The tree fell and the young man was in its path on his way to the road. I was told he lost his life in the incident. The person relating the story said that the sad thing was that the tree wasn't tall enough to reach the road. The young man lost his life and the tree could not have hit the car coming down the road. It was not tall enough to do so.

How important is checking the lay of the tree before beginning the cut? The surroundings in relation to the height and lean are so important. A plan must be complete with whether the tree has potential of hitting or reaching an obstacle or if a person is positioned to stop traffic, can it reach the person? How would you know? Height measure is the answer. Height measure is the technique of estimating or measuring the height of the tree before you cut.

There are several ways to check standing tree height and many different tools ranging from a stick to an elaborate laser type hypsometer. One of the simplest, and usually readily available, is a stick or even two short sticks that can be located at just about every worksite.

The concept is called triangulation. If you can figure two sides of an equal triangle you know the length of the other side... Well I'm not sure if the terms or the geometrical theory is correct but I know the stick trick can work. Take a stick longer than your arm and measure your arm length as accurately as possible. Then turn the stick upright at 90 degrees. Sight the base of the tree at your thumb grip on the stick, then with a look upward to the upper end of the stick note what you see at the tree. If you have tree above the stick move back. If the stick is above the top, the tree would not reach your location. Right below your eye, if the visual height of the tree is covering the entire stick, on the ground will be where the tip of the tree will land. It can be very accurate.

With this technique you can estimate height for some important tall knowledge before you cut. Make sure people, pets and obstacles are well out of the way before you choose to start the saw.

Learn more at our Height Measure link on our website.

Height measure is explained in detail in our eBook (video of height measure is on our SP and C eBook versions) and the Cross-Sight info sheet. Both can be found at our eStore.

Fuel Issues…

2010-01-27T21:50:00.001-05:00

I am excited about 50 Fuel! The more I talk and test, the more I am convinced of its importance in today’s two-cycle tools.

Look at this Run Trial article I have recently finished.

Find out more on our website under the Articles link from the homepage and read more about TruSouth Oil and their pre-mixed fuels under the links on ChainPoint Connections.

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Trains and Chains…

2010-01-17T08:45:00.001-05:00

Chainsaws and Train Tracks

Or Trains and Chains...

By Tim Ard

Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Worldwide transportation of freight, passengers and food all depend on rail systems connecting North America and connecting countries within other continents too.

Rails as you probably know have been operational for many decades but, what happens should storms play havoc along the rails? Could it be, as with many other disaster cleanup projects, yes the chain saw is a most valuable tool? Even around train rails the chain saw is one of the first tools acquired by workers when problems and debris block the tracks.

One tree can mean hours of delay and possibly threaten the life of trains and their passengers. An improperly cut and placed track tie can mean sure failure in the line…

What are some of the issues with chain saws and operators of major rail lines? How are they affected by chainsaw, misapplication of it, training, and or the lack of it? How many dollars are spent on down time in this very important industry?

I recently completed a training course with some Amtrak instructors and I learned some things I would like to pass along to help you. This team was awesome!

Tie-ing in Sharpening

How long does it take to dull a chain? How important is sharpening to a chain saw operator who has a task of cutting a railroad tie or removing wood debris after a storm?

Railroad ties when fairly new are not too rough on a saw chain but after they have lain around a few years under a train or near a track they collect all kinds of good stuff. Sand, rocks, spikes, end caps and rot all become added abrasion to the saw chain. Sometimes these foreign things are downright dulling!

We went through the parts of the saw tooth in class. Some comments were that it is not critical that sharpening be part of an operator’s knowledge in the field. The chains can be sharpened at a shop or replaced. I told them that I agree with that but if you don’t know when the chain is dull, what does it mean to the operator and eventually the piece of equipment. What does it mean to productivity and possibly safety? Then we went out to some outside saw work on some ties.

I had them look at their saw and the chain. It was a little damaged I noticed. I started my saw and made a cut in a tie. Then they tried their saw and it would hardly dent the tie. Just scratched the surface and smoked. They were amazed! They had a new chain for their saw and mounted it to complete the cut. It made a world of difference in the progress. I had told them I look for about an inch a second progress into the wood if the chain is sharp and doing its job, if not it’s time to stop and sharpen or replace it with a sharp one.

The tie breaker in this session was that the next cut made with their saw, one cut old new chain, was devastating. The operator made an undercut and there was a patch of sand or dirt in the exact place he wanted to make the cut. Soon as he started the cut the new chain stopped cutting - dulled it! Everyone thought that chain is hard metal and should last through many, many cuts on the ties or a tree. Not always so, the chains will stay sharp a long time if not damaged. The majority of the time the sharp edge is not dulled it is damaged for some reason in the cutting process.

So to tie it all together, the operator doesn’t have to know how to sharpen but they must be aware of when it needs to be sharpened. There must also be a system in place to repair the chains in the field or a supply of new sharp ones so the tasks can be completed productively and safely. Pushing and pulling trying to cut with a dulled chain will mean operator inefficiency, equipment damage and possibly injury. The operator does have to know sharp!

All kinds of sharpening systems are available. Once you know the tooth basics and the results you are expecting, practice!

How to Track Mixed Fuel

Who buys and stores the fuel supply? Is it fresh, stabilized or just plain old? Do your operators mix their own fuel? Does a supervisor or shop handle the fuel mix process? What happens in the field if there’s a hole in the system? How do you productively finish the field task if there is a flaw in your process? We agreed if there was a properly pre-mixed fuel can supply available, ready to go, the problem/issue would be solved. There is such a solution!

PPE on a Rail

Please be reminded to read your equipment operators manual and follow any added safety information from the manufacturer, your organization or company.

Personal Protective Equipment - Hardhats, eye and face protection, hands, legs, boots and visibility must be considered no matter if you a cutting a railroad tie or removing debris from a track or debris from your back yard.

Again, the chain saw is an amazing tool for many tasks and applications. There are a lot of things to consider. That’s why training is so important. Learn from those around you – seek information, be aware and plan what you do. Good Sawing!

See our eStore for items discussed in all our training programs and articles.

Happy New Year!

2009-12-31T13:17:00.001-05:00

I am excited!

2010 Is going to be an awesome year. Things are changing a bit since we will not be sponsored and limited to Husqvarna products. They have cancelled our sponsorship agreement for 2010 for budget reasons. We can now concentrate on the best products, tools and techniques for power equipment operators.

You will learn more in days and weeks to come…

Go to our website and make sure to sign up for ChainPoint Connection. www.forestapps.com .

Happy New Year Ya’ll!

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

President

Happy Holidays!

2009-12-23T09:23:00.001-05:00

Hello Everyone,

It is the second Holiday Season since my surgery and chemotherapy for colon cancer and tests are still showing clear. Thank God! Laura and the rest of the family are doing well and we are all set for all our family to be together for the Birth of Our Savior Celebration on Friday. For some of you there are other meanings to this season of the year but for us the Reason for this Season is Christmas, the birth of Jesus. I pray that your Spiritual needs are met in a real Way this Holiday Season.

We have had a busy year at Forest Applications Training, Inc. We completed 2009’s schedule with 184 working days, 152 nights on the road, all to bring training and presentations to just over 2500 participants. The 2010 calendar is already getting full (schedule).

I am excited about our ChainPoint upstart the first of the year. I know you have already received some ChainPoint emails, some too many, but I hope you will find the connection, after the first of January, to be valuable to your work (and yes play) with a chain saw and other power equipment. Keeping all safe and productive is our goal as we move into this venture. There will be product reviews, training program reviews, new techniques and a lot of communication from operators in questions and answers. All connecting you to items and services you will find useful.

Forest Applications Training, Inc. will be closed until the New Year so you won’t hear from me until the first week of January.

So, have a Blessed Holiday Season and Merry Christmas from Forest Applications Training, Inc. !

Good Sawing,

Tim Ard

Forest Applications Training, Inc.

http://www.forestapps.com

Chain Saw Gloves

2009-12-21T09:19:00.001-05:00

Saw Mittens

By Tim Ard

Forest Applications Training, Inc.

Gloves are an important part of personal protective equipment (P.P.E.) when working, especially with the chain saw. Many people I speak with say they do not use gloves because they have a hard time working with them. They don’t fit correctly, hard to hold things and gloves fatigue their hands. Another thing is to find gloves that will last long enough, they are expensive.

Over the years, with chain saw operators, the left hand has been in the top two laceration or cut areas when accidents occur. It’s common with the injuries sustained from a chain saw for the left hand to get in the chains’ rotation. I hear many stories of hand injuries happening when operators are doing maintenance or sharpening their saw chain too. They happen when operators don’t keep both hands on the handles when sawing. Hands are susceptible…

Gloves won’t prevent all hand injury from happening but they can reduce the severity in many of them.

I have been trying a glove design over the past few months that is awesome. I have been using mittens with chain saws since Soren Eriksson introduced me to them in the 80’s. Mittens have several advantages for the saw operator.

· You can get a better grip. Try pressing on your arm with fingers loosely placed (Like how it would be with cotton or leather between them with finger style gloves). Now try it with fingers together. It seems amazing; you can apply more pressure with your fingers together. One person told me that’s because your hands are designed that way. Mittens allow better grip because of this.

· The back of the left hand has chain saw material layered on the mitt. This can give you some reaction time from the chain should you need it.

· Index finger is still separated on the right hand for chain saw trigger operation.

· The palms need to be of leather for durability and abrasion resistant. Goat skin is used in these high quality work gloves. It has better characteristics with moisture. They dry without becoming hard and brittle.

· Should they need to come off quickly it’s possible. They won’t bind on your hands quite as much as finger styles. They slide off much easier.

· They also work very well with winter liners for cold operations.

Some gloves and mittens I have tried don’t last a week. These are the toughest and longest lasting I’ve used in years. I bought them in March and now closing in on the end of the year they are still usable. I have machine washed them several times, burned them on mufflers, cut them filing and the seams and materials have held up amazingly well. I don’t use them as hard and regularly as some of you would but I will assure you they will, from my experience; hold up superior to most gloves out there. You won’t go wrong with these mittens if you give them a try. I just received a new pair to start the year with…

The saw mittens are available in four sizes (medium fits me perfect). You can follow the link to Gransfors for more information and to purchase.

Santa Clara County California

2009-12-17T22:59:00.001-05:00

Last week I had four classes with Santa Clara Parks. Three Basic classes and one advanced hands on class. It was a pleasure to have the Park Rangers attending classes.

The Rangers have been involved in a couple of the previous training weeks but most of the SCC Parks employees have been from the maintenance departments. The Ranger’s are some of the first responders to storm situations in the parks. They are the ones who have to locate people on the trails 24/7. When tree damage from storms occur often Ranger’s are the ones to pick up the saws and gain entrance or clearance on the trails. The first to show…

I am pleased the county recognizes the need to train these Ranger’s and I have he opportunity to get to know them. Their commitment to the park visitor is unquestionable, the professionalism impeccable and their chain saw abilities are strong and growing. A fantastic combination to give Santa Clara Parks a clear advantage! - Tim